To Hellville, Nosy Be
Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Tue 30 Jul 2019 23:57
To Hellville on Nosy Be
Island
05:53 and
05:59. I just happened to be awake......
Bear woke and on went the engine at
06:30.
In the early morning light we headed
down the east coast of the tiny resort island of Tsara
Bajina. A week for the two of us, all inclusive, between four and five
thousand pounds plus flights and transfers. Comments say it is very lovely with
limited cell coverage - so couples have to speak to each
other........
A lovely little
resort.
Our journey
today is thirty-three nautical miles.
An interesting
sky at a quarter past seven.
Our
scenery.
Nosy Be in
the centre, Komba to the left.
Mainland
Madagascar off to the left.
The gap between
the islands begins to open up.
Depth would have be fine for us but I
was a good girl and followed the transit lines in, first heading to the shore of
Nosy Be, the next heading for the edge of Komba.
A cute island
lighthouse.
Crossing the
bay, an incredibly dull day.
A local lady drifting
across.
Another local
lady.
Our first look at
Hellville, population about 73,000.
Just love these simple boats.
We pass a girl called Joseph Conrad as we near the anchorage.
Local in a
hurry but time for a welcoming wave.
As I was mincing
about the anchorage we were approached by Jimmy – the local go-to
chap.
Within minutes of the anchor being
set, we were aboard Jimmy’s borrowed dodgy, little
craft (saved time inflating Baby Beez and putting the outboard on, as it
was going on for half past two) and he was paddling at the
front. All our rubbish between him and us.
Looking back at the big girl happily at anchor. Note the missing
dodger bearing her Beez Neez name, looks naked without but until I can
get the sewing machine out......... The solar panel on this side is Heath
Robinson until we can find a welder.
The jetty
is in constant use with local ferries, small delivery
boats and all manor of comings and goings. Therefore we will need a boat
boy – supplied by Jimmy - at £2.26 for a full day, half for part of. Otherwise
the risk is Baby Beez will go permanent walkabout. A very valuable
commodity for such a poor nation.
First stop was at the Police
portacabin. I instantly felt we were going to be rooked out of extra money but
there we are..... Ladies carrying loads on their
heads will become a frequent sight.
Next, off in a
tuktuk to the ATM, photocopy shop (we didn’t have a copy of our Chagos
clearance....) and back to the Police to hand over £116.41. Various dues and our
two-month Visa (President has just changed this to the maximum from three
months, damn). The burly chap wanted us back in an hour post his airport taxi
run for said Visas. We bimbled along the street to Customs, a nice man who only
wanted £11.19 and then to the Harbourmaster who wanted £51.04 for our
three-month Cruising Permit, a limited list but covers everywhere we would like
to visit.
Officialdom done baring picking up
our Passports, we bimbled along the main street
toward the Orange shop for SIM card and data. £24.62 for thirty days and 10
gigabytes. We get another ten free if used after eleven at night.
Goats out for a
bimble. We were beginning to feel like that, well
the purse certainly does. Three hours later, Passports in hand, we
handed Jimmy £13.43. He charged us double because
he gave us a lift......, back aboard to sag in a sweaty heap. Our total spend
was £192.07 and nary been near the supermarket or local rum suppliers.......
Straight into supper as we had missed lunch and a celebratory backgammon, I lost
and growled. Showers and we fell into bed exhausted. Good Night All.
ALL IN ALL A WHIRLWIND OF
OFFICIALDOM AFTER A PEACEFUL JOURNEY
EFFICIENTLY DONE BUT AT SOME
COST |