What a Trip
Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Mon 11 Oct 2010 22:52
Our Epic Trip to
Peru
According to the "1,000 Places to
See Before You Die" Book Peru has seven entries. I have placed them in
the order we visited them. On the 5th of September 2010 we entered the Manu National Park. At nearly four and a half million acres
it is one of the largest wilderness preserves in South America and perhaps the
most important tropical park in the world. Protecting an entire virgin
watershed, the park encompasses radically different ecological zones, ranging
from Andean peaks of more than thirteen thousand feet down through the cloud
forest and into endless lowland rain forests below one thousand feet. No other
reserve on earth can compare to it in terms of sheer biodiversity. There are an
estimated twenty thousand plant species, more than a thousand different species
of birds (that is more then the US and Canada together), thirteen different
monkeys including the capuchin and spider to mustachioed emperor tamarin. The
park's unlogged, unhunted, nearly untouched state has left the animal
inhabitants remarkably unafraid of humans, we were able to see up close so many
species that have vanished elsewhere in the Amazon.
The legendary inception of the mighty
Amazon two thousand miles from the Atlantic is home to more primates than seen
anywhere else in the New World. The Peruvian Amazon
is home to so much colour and we saw so many hundreds of parrots, macaws,
parakeets and birds on the 6th of September.
Cuzco is
the archaeological capital of the Americas, a unique destination steeped in an
age-old culture surrounded by the beauty and mysticism of the Andes. In the
native Quechua language qosqo meant "the earth's navel", the birthplace and
centre of the Incan empire. And everything in this colonial city eleven thousand
feet above sea level leads back to the Plaza de Armas, the navel's navel. Called
Huacaypata by the Inca, the plaza was the heart of the capital, which was
founded in the 12th century by Manco Capac. The old city spreads in a ten-block
radius around it is a colonial repository of the years following Pizarro's
arrival in 1532, and the Spaniards invasion and eventual destruction of the
Incan civilisation - once the western hemisphere's greatest empire. We first saw
the city on the 10th of September.
Machu
Picchu needs no introduction - we were there on the 12th of September.
These ruins are the supreme showpiece, strategic and isolated in a high altitude
setting coupled with its mysterious significance in the ancient Inca universe
make this one of the world's most beautiful and haunting destinations. Abandoned
by the Inca and reclaimed by the jungle, the one hundred acre complex of
temples, warehouses, houses, irrigation terraces and stairs remained hidden from
outsiders until American explorer Hiram Bingham was led to it by a ten year old
local boy.
Lake Titicaca was in Bear's top ten personal list to visit, we
floated on the legendary three thousand two hundred square mile lake on the 21st
of September. Lake Titicaca is - at twelve thousand five hundred feet above
sea level - the highest navigable lake in the world. But only those who visit
know of the luminescence of the light and the ever-changing play of colour on
its water. The lakes singular beauty supports the ancient myth that Manco Capac
and his sister-consort, Mama Ocllo, founders of the Incan Empire, emerged from
these magical Andean waters. We will never forget our visit to the floating
island of Uros, the welcome of the people who have lived unchanged lifestyles
for centuries.
Much of colonial Arequipa -
known as La Ciudad Blanca (the White City) for its elaborate 16th and
17th-century Spanish homes - is hidden behind imposing walls. Nothing prepares
the wanderer who stumbles upon this lovely city's greatest secret, the
cloistered world of the Monasterio de Santa Catalina,
a miniature city within a city that was opened to the
public in 1970. We visited on the 23rd of September. The few elderly
Dominican nuns still living there have moved to the northern corner of the
convent, but the rest of the grounds may be visited. For centuries this quiet,
self-contained community was home to well-to-do women who never left the
premises, as the cemetery testifies. Covering an entire city block, the
original convent was built in 1580 and soon gained a reputation as a sort of
exclusive club, where young girls of aristocratic families arrived for an
education, a safe haven, or a spiritual vocation (some with maids, slaves, large
dowries and fancy lifestyles to maintain). Of the maximum four hundred and fifty
women living there, only a third were actually nuns until the late 1800's when
circumstances redirected life back to the religious.
Peru's arid
desert coast is the setting for the mysterious, ancient Nazca Lines, a series of
geometric forms and straight lines in the earth that depict stylised human and
animal shapes. Covering an astounding one hundred and ninety three miles, they
can be fully appreciated only from the air. Some are simple, perfectly formed
triangles, trapezoids or straight lines running for miles across the desert;
others represent giant animals, such as the five hundred and forty foot long
lizard or the condor with its three hundred and ninety foot
wingspan. Who constructed these lines remain a mystery. We were lucky to
fly over them on the 28th of September - lucky for several reasons. There is a
newish rule whereby each little Cessna has a pilot AND a co-pilot as one
went down recently when the pilot had a heart attack killing all on
board. Just a few days after our flight a plane went down killing four English
tourists and the pilots. As Bear always says You need
your luck.
To accomplish this amazing
journey we flew eleven thousand and ninety seven international airline miles
from Trinidad, through the US, on to Colombia and finally arriving in Lima - and
back again. We flew, rode, boated and bussed a further three thousand, nine
hundred and four miles within Peru, meeting amazing people. The people of the floating island of Uros told us they are
quite happy when tourists throw empty plastic bottles away, they get used as
floatation or sinking devices.
I got to see every Twitchers dream -
The Andean Condor
The Team -
Beez Neez and Anne and Alan from Freya of Clyde
Alan said travelling companions entry
requirements were "High and Tight". We travelled fifteen thousand and one
miles with no arguments, plenty of laughs, a jippy stomach each. We were
wowed by birds, saw quite a bit of poverty with very little begging amongst
largely very happy people who still manage to live life to a pattern set
centuries ago. Overall we were all impressed at how everything left on time, on
schedule and all our connections worked.
Some of the classics. Anne who must
be 'thanked' for organising the whole trip - enjoyed watching "Three weddings
and a Funeral". Complained about the "Tinned Music" at the airport. Enjoyed the
remake of Private Ryan on one of our coach journeys - when the rest of us
watched a remake of Private Benjamin. But the best has to be "Guinea Pigs breed
like Rabbits"........................
Alan said "It was so thin it wasn't
real" ??? His pearl has to be "A very efficient
conversion rate from food into energy with so little waste".
Bear was famous for the loud noises
coming from the smallest room. At one point I feared for our safety when it
showed up on the Richter Scale as an earthquake.
I had to be corrected on a blog when
we 'had an accent to get to Sun Gate' I had meant ascent.
We learned a bit of Scottish - to
Corrie Doone (pronounced Curry Doon) meaning to schooch down in bed, this was
clearly invented before curries were available in Scotland.
We saw terrific scenery, amazing
flora and fauna, met some fantastic people. Peru has it all - Desert,
snow-capped mountains, the cold Pacific Ocean with its Humboldt Penguins.
Flamingos high up on the mountain plains. Parrots in the Amazon Jungle and
enough history to keep everybody interested. We took one or two
photographs....................The list is endless so best summed up rather
inadequately as...............
ALL IN ALL A
CLASH OF CULTURE, COLOUR, CUISINE AND CREATURES IN AN EXTRAORDINARY
COUNTRY.
|