Medina in Rabat

Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Wed 8 Oct 2008 23:30
The Medina in Rabat
 
 
This photo shows the main breakwater entrance to the marina from the Atlantic, then the curving waterway in to the inner breakwater, to the right of this picture is the checking in pontoon etc. Past the car park is part of the old city wall that leads up the hill to the Medina of Rabat. We walked from far left ( out of view ) from the Tour Hassan and Mausoleum of Mohammed V and toward the minaret in the photo.
 
 
   
 
We left the Mausoleum, over Bear's left shoulder by a side gate. Walked down some very rough roads past all the Embassies that looked like large ordinary houses, nothing special at all. In this area of the city there is much regeneration, re-builds and new builds as well as the new express tramway, due to finish next year. Part of the Medina wall, a view of one of the entrances. They are all not like this, some very tatty.
 
 
                 
 
Once inside the sheer size of the place is not perceptible, many skinny streets that lead through a warren of shops and houses, some incredibly poor. It is not until you get a birds-eye view that you begin to feel the enormity of the place. AND see all the Satellite dishes ???? - how can they afford that !!!!
 
 
   
 
The colours, smell both really good and horrid assault you. You see smart leather stalls arranged beautifully, fruit and veg stalls all higgledy-piggledy, very orderly shops with fixed prices and of course tons of spice and nuts native to the area. The poorer end of the medina are the street hawkers with third and fourth hand "stuff" laid out on a old sheet. We saw a doll with no legs and having a bad hair day, in amongst bits for cars and clothing. We wandered past a stall selling belly dancing outfits, pants that started like bits of string Thingy Thongies reaching size 54, "Heck that must be some kind of real mama not to be argued with" ...... heard slight muttering but he got away with it. That must be be the Moroccan equivalent of Ann Summers ................
 
 
                    
 
We walked past this mixed stall and I heard They sell loads of leather dog baskets, in fact the shop back there, that's all they sold. " I think you'll find they are empty pouffes" and later on we saw the filling being sold separately by weight on a huge old fashioned scale. OH. The jewelers had an area to themselves, as did the wedding dress, banqueting for hire, and silversmiths. Butchers were in amongst everyone. You don't see much blood on their meat. Cooked meats, olives, tights, long-johns all mixed in together. Raw pigs trotters and goats feet. Then a roast cows head, goats head and various bits of "things", but they did smell very yummy although not the most attractive to look at.
It is the first time in my life I have not had a pet. When I saw these tortoises that came in three sizes, "If I buy a pair of little chaps, I can grow them a mustard and cress garden in a tray, they can have fruit and veg with us, wander round the boat at harbour or anchor, live in a shallow sand box at sea and we will only go touring inland when they are in hibernation, perfect pets" NO
 
 
                            
 
Bear of course was in his food heaven. Big fat dates at a £1 a kilo, fresh bread and = a contented skipper.
We had explored Sale Medina the night before, where I had bought Bear his Djellabah ( come in handy in the tropics in high heat / humidity ) and had no one approach us, in fact the shop keepers and stallholders just said hello. Here in Rabat I was approached by only one tout. I played along as a tester. I said I wanted a simple plain black Djellabah. He took me to various stalls, his aunt, his uncle, father and eventually his mother, selling from a sheet on the floor. He told me black was expensive, "I'm not bothered about that". Off he went. The lady had wanted 100 dirham's, he told me she wanted 200. The label on the garment had a tag saying Dubai. "This is not local" with that he ripped off the label and said "local Moroccan". I walked away, he followed and within 50 yards said item now 150 dirham's. We ducked into a shoe shop and escaped our quarry. Much later we did a full circuit, found the same lady and bought my Kaftan for her original 100, she carefully folded, placed in a clean plastic bag and a carrier bag. Humble and genteel, this lady bowed graciously and we believe was delighted we had sought her out. The 100 note was secreted in her undergarments, chuffed I went off to find my scull cap and scarf to complete my attire. You read all sorts of stories on various blogs about the "hidden dangers" of Souks and Medina's. My answer "What would you do in Soho, Petticoat Lane or a local market". Haggling and bartering have been with us since man could grunt "GET A LIFE"
 
 
 
 
                
 
Photo One A Jedi Warrior                                                                            Photo Two A Jedi on a Warrior. Spot the deliberate mistake, answers please
 
 
 
Very chuffed in my Kaftan, ( cos it hasn't a hood and it has pockets - not slits to get through into trousers and can be warn on its own ). Bear not keen on the full face look - but very happy to go out and about with me Normal.
My cap was 8 dirham's, the scarf 20, Big Bear handed over what he thought was 30 and waited for his change because we hadn't bartered, he felt he should, the chap said OK: I was a might embarrassed when he showed Bear had given him 25 !!!!!. Whole outfit 125 = £8.75. "Delighted"
 
All in all a brilliant day filled with colour and custom.