Beez Neez now Chy Whella

To Saba

Big Bear and Pepe Millard

Sat 26 Feb 2011 21:02

En Route to Saba

We woke to much activity - Stacia Responder was first to fire up her engines at six thirty, we gradually came to, breakfasted, a quick explore and ready to leave by ten

Anchored all around us were chums, a few local boats and two other visiting yachts

There is a constant flow of chums bringing in crude oil that is refined here

The vast refinery above the long, long jetty

Up anchor and time to leave this somewhat grey place

We knew we were in for a 'frisky ride' today (hopefully not as frisky as the ride here) I tried to get a wave breaking over the top of the vast Amazon Gladiator, I couldn't keep balance long enough - but it did - a wave went up and over her nose, very spectacular. I can best describe trying to take this picture as standing on a mechanised disk, a comparison would be sitting on one of those automated buckin' broncos you see in American bars. Not a bit for you Rita. Not a bit. I'm hoping it gets no worse believe me.

Saba in the distance beckoning to us

I'll not make a thing of the Rita Scale Nine or the odd splash or two, we were too intrigued by the houses at impossible angles so high up the steep terrain

We radioed Saba Harbour Master for advice, a happy young voice told the relieved us, that we could pick up a free buoy in Fort Bay to log in. At three o'clock there was I trying to hold the girl sensibly so Bear could get hold of the bucking blue-striped-yellow thing in twenty eight knots of wind, gusting thirty three. First attempt I came in perfectly and held her at one point nine knots, Bear looked ready to strike with the pole and tether, then looked at me as if to say why did you suddenly shoot backwards. It's too rough for me to go at him just now and I've still got to make another attempt, but I will remember this. Be aware Bear, be aware, remember my new sharp gaff.

Anyway second attempt I held us at two point nine knots and Bear got the two lines on the jaunty little buoy. We sat down exhausted after such a journey to plan how to get not only Baby Beez in the water but the engine on. It took an hour and a half. We succeeded in lowering Baby Beez off and tying her behind us in her 'bib bobbling' fashion. At this point the stern platform was going a foot underwater and rising just as high, it felt like being in a Zanussi rinse cycle. The engine was clearly going to be the tricky bit. We normally tie Baby Beez side on to the stern platform in two places - we couldn't do that as every wave took the dinghy beneath the stern platform and danger bells were ringing in both of our heads (we are talking about five foot waves, a new experience for us whilst doing what we normally do in just a few minutes). We felt sure if we had to abort we could radio in to say "too dodgy to come ashore, we'll stay under the yellow flag". I have a black pulley which I use to swing out and a pink one that I can lock and lower to help me with the weight of the engine and it takes a few seconds normally. We decided I would free swing the outboard over the nose end of Baby Beez, Bear would be seated in the nose to catch, unclip and wrestle said outboard to the rear and clamp as normal. The few seconds I normally take now had to be a split second and pray. All went well and I was very proud of Bear. By the time we had got the seat on, the fuel tank in and climbed aboard Beez, he looked frazzled. The photos above do no justice to how it really was, but you can get an idea of one second looking at Baby Beez and the next way up into the sky (I'm standing downstairs in Beez looking out). Well all we hoped was Saba was worth it. The whole island adventure is in the 1000 Places book.

While all this is going on, I'll let you see how the "longer hair experiment" is going on, don't mind the back but the candy floss front had better shape up soon

Inside the quiet little harbour of Fort Bay we finally head to Customs and Immigration

In the first blue building we find no-one, so we go to the white one to pay our Park Fees. $3 each for a week and $6 for Beez. We learn from the very friendly lady that jet skis are banned as is fishing, snorkeling with gloves on and scuba diving alone (you have to go with a local dive shop). We pick up loads of free informative pamphlets. Immigration we can see is locked so we walk past the islands Caterpillar generator (enormous and noisy - see white car parked outside in last photo) and head for the bar - to the left of Saba Deep. We walk in and the half dozen folks all turn to welcome us and want to know how was our trip, where we are from etc. etc. We say we cannot find the Harbour Master, one of the cheery faces says "that's me, come in tomorrow". I don't mention at this point that we have just risked life and limb to adhere to the rules of checking in, just slump down with a beer, we love the place already. This is the heartiest welcome we have ever had. Bear goes off to find a taxi to ship us around tomorrow and I sit quite still as the floor is moving considerably - need to get my land legs. We are told by the cheeries not to go and buoy up round the corner as the side swell is hideous. Off we go with good wishes for the night.