Tahaa with Devar

Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Thu 12 Sep 2013 22:47
Tahaa with Devar ![]() Located in the same lagoon as
Raiatea, the high island of Taha’a is nevertheless
very different from her big sister. The five thousand three hundred islanders
are vey proud of their island, the people are spread in eight villages along the
shore and live in harmony with the trade winds. There are a few hotels and guest
houses, a few visiting yachtsmen and charter boats. The many motu circling the
island are said to be some of the prettiest in French Polynesia. The lagoon has
a depth of ten to forty six metres all the way round, hence the skippers wish to
circumnavigate the island – one of the few that makes this’ feat’ possible. From
the small port of Uturoa (north end of Raiatea), shuttles provide transportation
to neighbouring islands as Tahaa has no airport. Freighters bring supplies to
both islands.
![]() ![]() ![]() This
morning we were on the quayside at eight thirty and soon we were being welcomed
by Devar, who had brought his friend Yo to help with our tour of the island.
Leaving the bay behind
on a fairly good road. Then the road followed the edge of
the bay and later, a more natural
terrain........
![]() ![]() ![]() We passed several
houses on stilts.
![]() ![]() ![]() All the gardens we passed were
clearly very proud of their flowers. The roof in the centre, was
actually a cover for a van that had been converted into a restaurant kitchen,
with al fresco dining.
![]() We stopped at a small quay to pick up
two couples who were staying at a small motu resort
opposite. The sky went very dark and the rain fell.
![]() That produced a nice rainbow........
![]() .........but a very drab view of Bora Bora. The weather, especially the
wind has been so bad there that many yachts have stayed put.
![]() ![]() Devar showed us a medicinal plant while Yo fetched a cock tupa (land crab), that are happy here in there thousands.
Marvelous.
![]() Devar stopped so we could see various
bits of smashed coconut drying in the sun, at this point called copra. When completely dry, it will be bagged and sent to
the one treatment plant in Papeete, where some will be used to make essence,
some to be ground as fertiliser. We thought the drying sheds - roof slides over
in the rain - looked so much like the coffee and chocolate bean driers in we had
seen on Grenada.
![]() Then up a steep, bumpy road looking
down into a forest of mape trees.
![]() ![]() From the Vaitoetoe Pass we had
spectacular views out to sea and Haamene
Bay.
![]() ![]() What was exciting for us, we could
look down on Beez Neez.
![]() ![]() ![]() Whilst admiring the view, with a fresh
coconut drink, Bear was presented with a new ‘beak’.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here we watched Devar and Yo de-fur a coconut, which became the platter, add a few leaves as a
doilies and begin to chop the fruit they had
been gathering along the way.
![]() By the time they were finished we had
a royal feast of pomelo, coconut, papaya, mango and
finished off with star fruit. Once eaten the whole
thing was chucked into the bushes, completely bio-friendly for the awaiting
chickens to peck over. Wonderful.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() A little way down the hill, we
stopped once more. This time we were held spellbound as Devar cut a piece of
wood, added a notch, made a score below the notch, twisted and stripped the
outer bark and handed it to Yo. Then he cut completely through the stick, made a
pointed end – rather like sharpening a pencil. Next he put the bark sleeve back
on and inserted (pointy end first) the bit he had cut off. He placed the notch
to his lips and blew. As he pulled the inner bit in and out the most amazing
sound of a flute going up
and down the treble clef sounded – he says after six beers he gets to concert
level – well if we shut our eyes James Gallway certainly has competition. Devar
said his grandfather, who taught him, insisted he play with his nose (which he
showed us) “as bad words can come out of a mouth, but, the breath from a nose
has come from ‘she’. ” We thought that was rather lovely.
![]() ![]() Next stop was to be Grandfathers
vanilla plantation. Off the track we passed many cockerels
in tiny cages. Mmmm. Then Devar pulled over and pointed through the
bushes. Very well hidden was a cock fighting ring.
Apparently a Chinese man who speaks like a native, runs a very lucrative
business here. A winning cock (no knives attached) fights fairly and wins two
thousand dollars for his owner, such is the stakes. The winner is declared when
his opponent flees the arena, which is very good news, as this means no fighting
to the death (phew), although a determined opponent may choose to fight
on......... A very traditional sport in these parts and its been going on for
centuries.....
![]() Vanilla is
the major economic industry here on Tahaa, (own blog) where he patiently showed
us how to open and pollinate each flower.
![]() The college or senior school just behind where Beez is
anchored. We passed a primary school in Patio known
locally as Tepapa I Ahuroa, north of the island, and saw most of the eight village schools.
![]() Home, where
wife Linda welcomed us
with fresh juice, sliced pineapple and an intriguing purple
fruit. Linda explained more about vanilla, its
drying, preparation and uses.
![]() ![]() ![]() Fat, fat & skinny
and skinny vanilla
pods.
Each day Linda puts the vanilla beans
outside in the sun for three hours. Daily massaging has to occur to straighten
them. Each afternoon they are wrapped in their protective sheet and put in a box
to sweat out much of their water content. Then they are ready for vacuum
packing, adding to rum, put in containers to sell, ground for candles, soap,
cosmetics and a whole raft of uses.
To end our time here at his home,
Devar gave us a red ‘bean’. We had to strip the skin in our mouths with our
teeth, eat the pulp from the seed inside and hand that over for planting. Then
we were given a chunk of lime to suck, very sweet taste – the bean had changed
the tongues perception of bitterness completely.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Our last stop of the day was to walk
across the road from Devar’s house, to the pearl farm
opposite. There a lady welcomed us and gave us a talk about oysters. Black pearl
farms are a recent introduction to the island, the temperature in the lagoon is
just right but few youngsters want to enter this world of tending the creatures
with constant care and snorkeling everyday. We learned
more and got to watch Linda expertly prise the shell of one chap open with a blunt knife, insert half a peg, then
the tool for holding the shell open. We saw inside as she pointed out the
gonads. Nice. The pearls here were very good but terrifically expensive, no fear
for the captains purse losing its cobwebs and bats.......
![]() ![]() Devar
(right of picture) and Yo, dropped us back at
Baby Beez after a thoroughly good day.
ALL IN ALL A DAY OF CULTURE
AND TRADITION
REALLY INTERESTING WITH FABULOUS VIEWS –
A TERRIFIC
DAY |