The Asa Wright Nature
Centre and Lodge
Up we jumped ready to be picked up by
Jessie in his posh Maxi Taxi for a day out. We drove through Port of Spain
listening to Jessie, between his mobile phone calls, about Trinidad, its
history, a bit about politics and fascinating facts. We drove for about an hour
and arrived at the Asa Wright Nature Centre and Lodge
which is a nature resort and scientific research station, of about
700 acres, located in the Arima Valley of the Northern
Range in Trinidad, 1,200 feet above sea
level, in pristine rain forest. The Centre is one of the
top bird watching spots in the
Caribbean; a total of 159 species
of birds have been recorded here. The Centre is owned by a
non-profit trust and is in the "1000
things to do"......book. First we went on a short guided tour to
seek out Manikins and learn about Oilbirds a new one on
us.
The Heliconia welcomed us. A view over the
grounds and a cut
flower
The major properties consist of the Spring
Hill Estate and the adjacent William Beebe Tropical Research Station (also known
as Simla) which was established by William Beebe as a tropical research station for the
New York Zoological Society. Both properties had
previously been cacao estates but contained
large stands of original rainforest as well. Newcombe and Asa
Wright hosted many visiting scientists in
this period, including noted ornithologists David
Snow and Barbara Snow who made detailed
studies of the oilbirds and the fascinating and very complex courtship dances of
the White-bearded Manakin and the Golden-headed
Manakin.
A bottle brush, a new colour of Heliconia called Sexy Pink and an old favourite from
Grenada
The Wright's home, built in 1908, became
internationally renowned for its easy access to wildlife especially the
oilbird colonies in the
nearby Dunstan Cave, and large numbers of
humming birds. After the death of Newcombe Wright, the Spring
Hill Estate was acquired by a non-profit Trust. Asa Wright continued to live at
the Centre until her death in 1971. The Centre recently
acquired the Rapsey Estate in the Aripo Valley, just west of the Arima
Valley. Oilbird (Steatornis caripensis), also known as Guácharo, is a slim,
long-winged bird related to the nightjars and usually placed with
these in the order Caprimulgiformes. Oilbirds
are found in the northern areas of South
America from
Guyana and the island of
Trinidad to
Venezuela,
Columbia,
Ecuador,
Peru and
Bolivia in forests and woodland
with caves. It is a seasonal migrant, moving from its breeding caves in
search of fruit trees. It has occurred as a rare vagrant to Costa
Rica, Panama and
Aruba. This
nocturnal species, uniquely, is a specialist feeder on the fruit of the Oil
Palm and tropical
laurels. All the other nightjars
and their relatives are insectivores. The Oilbird's
feet are small and almost useless, other than for clinging to vertical surfaces.
However, it is capable of hovering and twisting flight, which enables it to
navigate through restricted areas of its caves. This is
a large bird at sixteen to nineteen inches in height, with a wing span
of some three feet. It has a flattened, powerfully hooked bill surrounded
by deep chestnut rictal bristles up to two inches long. It is mainly
reddish-brown with white spots on the nape and wings. Lower parts are
cinnamon-buff spotted with white. The stiff tail feathers are a rich brown
spotted with white on either side. During the day these
gregarious birds rest on cave ledges. The nest is a heap of droppings, usually
above water - either a stream or the sea, on which two to four glossy white eggs
are laid which soon become stained brown. These are rounded but with a
distinctly pointed smaller end and average 41.2 x 33.2
mm.
The squabs become very fat before fledging,
weighing up to half again as much as the adult birds do. They used to be
harvested and rendered for oil, hence the name "oilbird". Although the Oilbird forages by sight, it is one of only a few birds,
and the only nocturnal one, known to navigate by
echolocation in sufficiently poor light conditions, using a
series of sharp audible clicks for this purpose. It also produces a variety of
harsh screams while in its caves. Entering a cave with a light especially
provokes these raucous calls; they also may be heard as the birds prepare to
emerge from a cave at dusk. The oilbird is called a
"guácharo" or "tayo" in Spanish, both terms being of
indigenous origin. In Trinidad it was sometimes called "diablotin" (French for
"little devil"), presumably referring to its loud cries, which have been likened
to those of tortured men. The Guacharo
Cave (Oilbird Cave), in the mountainous
Caripe district of northern
Monagas,
Venezuela, is where Alexander von
Humboldt first studied the
species. The caripensis of the binomial name means "of Caripe", and Steatornis
means "fat bird", in reference to the fatness of the squabs. The Guácharo Cave was Venezuela's first national monument, and is the
centerpiece of a national park; according to some estimates there may be 15,000
or more birds living there. Colombia also has a national park named after
its "Cueva de los Guacharos", near the southern
border with Ecuador. Oilbirds have been reported in various other places along
the Andean mountain chain, including
near Ecuador's Cueva de los Tayos and in
Brazil: they are known to dwell as far south
as the Carrasco National Park in Bolivia. Dunstan Cave, at the Asa Wright
Nature Centre, is home to about two hundred nesting
pairs.
Time for a few pictures before a
traditional buffet lunch and local pear juice. Then for serious birding on the
balcony overlooking many feeding tables.
Lovely to see the variety of birds but the first
hummer of the day was very special.
ALL IN ALL A 'TWITCHERS' PARADISE
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