Nazare
Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Sat 23 Aug 2008 23:36
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Nazare
Overnight in Povoa, the siren
(faulty) that is supposed to sound ONLY in fog, went all night. By four thirty I
was really getting fed up. In the morning we jumped up to wave Nimue off
thinking we would stay for a few more days. Later in the morning Bear saw Joe
from Algeiba and the decision to leave at mid day was not vetoed by me. Bear
said Hi to Quinn and we left at 12:15, on Sunday 17th August, for the 116
miles to Nazare. Joe waited for us to catch up and took this stunning
photo.
 You would not believe this is the
Atlantic Ocean, flat calm and amzingly blue. All of this west coast in olden
days was called "The Coast of Death", not because it was particularly dangerous
but they believed it was the end of the earth, just as well the great explorers
were not afraid of falling off the edge.
Note our motor sailing cone, we
got into good habits early on Razz, but have seen in books and
marinas, warnings that the authorities are bearing down on folks who don't have
the right flags, lights, markers etc. On the spot fines of 50
to 500 euros and if not paid, impounding and a maximum of 5000 euros. We have never seen any maritime police out there
but wouldn't like to get on the wrong side.
 
 Bear going off watch, me coming on at
18:00 and a sunset I took.
 When I went on duty at 2am I was
faced with bioluminescence the like I had never seen before. After trying dozens
of photos and seeing just black, I ended up using this one from the internet to
show an example, it honestly looked just like this. The light is caused by
swarms of noctiluca, an algae in the group called dinoflagellates. They
contain a protein, luciferin, that emits light when oxidised by contact
with the air brought in by the agitated water. These flashes of light are only
tenths of a second but due to the sheer number, seems permanent. Its a great way
of seeing lobster pot buoys, but when a dolphin surfaced next to me, I thought
it was the last scene from "Terminator". Later in my shift a group of
dolphins grouped a shoal of fish and used the side of the boat as a trap. I took
a video, which does show the hundreds of fish jumping with a dozen dolphins in
pursuit, all lit up. The most fantastic thing I have ever seen in my life. It is
such a pity dolphins smell so awful.
The down side for me is going to the
toilet, I ruin my night vision by turning on the light because I cannot bring
myself to wee on something that is flashing up at me !!!!!!
 The next morning before I went to bed
at 06:00 I took this ( just for you Colin ) but as you can see, yet again, I
failed to get the chap in the air. They jump and smile knowing they
are too fast for my shutter.
 
 We arrived at 10:45 on Monday
morning and rafted next to Nimue ( pronounced Nim Way - the lady in the lake
with Excalibar, also bloggers on Mailasail ). Skipper had to complete
formalities with the marina, the maritime and local police. This one had a great
pair of long leather boots, shame about the hat. In town we saw this lady
stoking her BBQ coals with a hairdryer. In the past I have been called potty for
telling people that the best fly preventer is a clear bag filled with water, the
fly sees his reflection and thinks a much bigger fly lives here and goes on his
way. Well AT LAST, I have seen it in action in the front door to this
cafe.
Nazare got its name from a statue of
the Virgin Mary brought to town from Nazareth by a monk in the 4th century, it
is now famous for its fishing industry. The inhabitants of Nazare have long
straight noses and grey eyes, thought to be decended from the Phoenicians. The
fishermen have very brightly painted boats, of Phoenician design, often
with a eye on each side below the high prow, these are to look for shoals of
fish and storms. Until recently the boats were pulled up onto the beach by
oxen.
Nazare has been a good place to base
ourselves for the day trips of importance, but it has been VERY noisy with the
fishermen coming and going.
   Just opposite us was a huge fish
market. The seagulls and women wait for the boats to come in. Any tiny fish get
chucked back for the gulls, any that fall off the baskets when the fork lift
moves away at speed are fair game for anyone with a carrier bag. We left the
boys having a beer outside the marina cafe/mini market/pub and went to
investigate. Neither Ann or I have shopped at the Harrod's fish department,
but purses at the ready to buy a few, did not go with the idea of
forraging off the floor. We returned to the boys, defeated. Just as we were
leaving Ann was presented with about 4 lbs of fish ( well she was the one
showing a bit of leg ), sadly small. We settled to do a bit of filleting. Rose
wine at hand, just like the Galloping Gourmet and Keith Floyd
would.
COMMENT. I really thought the
Portugese had sex on the mind, everywhere I have been there have been posters
with it mentioned inumerable times. I commented to Bear who informed me "It
is a day of the week, you muppet".
I looked on the web and indeed it is
short for Sexta-Feira or Friday.................................
Off to Cascais, pronounced Cash Kai
on Sunday 24th August.
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