Shirley Heights
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Shirley
Heights
Back in the car to drive the short
distance up to Shirley Heights via the Interpretation Centre were we watched a
film about the history of Antigua told by the sun to a small
boy.
   Jump liked
the interpretation centre because it was air-conditioned - in fact she asked the
lady if she could sleep in there. Bear surprised her
with popcorn - everyone has to have popcorn at the movies. Engrossed in the show, just as well we had swivel chairs as
the scenes were all round the room. Strategically placed monitors showed the
history of Antigua and the scenery was simple but effective. A nice cooling
break out of the sun.
 The breathtaking
view down to English Harbour, Nelson's Dockyard (centre) and beyond
Falmouth Harbour.
Shirley Heights itself refers to a
military complex, along the whole ridge. It is named after Sir Thomas Shirley,
Governor of the Leeward Islands, who strengthened Antigua's defences in 1781.
Britain had lost all her West Indian colonies including North America
at this time - except for Barbados and Antigua. Much effort was put into
Antigua's defences, mainly because of the island's great sugar producing value
and the important Dockyard.
Shirley Heights may be divided into
three sections:
The Ridge and Artillery Quarters. A Ridge, on which several ruins may be noted, leads to the Heights. The first buildings on the left are the Royal Artillery Gunner’s Barracks along with the Train of Artillery building (now a research centre), built in 1790 for 60 men. After the army left, it became a lunatic asylum. Blockhouse. This is the easternmost part of the military complex, with a magnificent view looking over the south-east coast . It was designed as a place of last refuge, which is indeed the meaning of the word. A moat opposing the vertical cliffs was originally planned, but was never started. The Officer's Quarters is in ruins as are the out buildings, servants quarters, married quarters and stables. There is a fine powder magazine, cistern and catchment that has received some restoration work. The Lookout. This high point at about 490 feet affords a superb view of English and Falmouth Harbours, the best view in Antigua.
Plenty of time for Bear and Jump "to catch up" we were one of the first people to arrive and picked a nice table to enjoy the sunset.
The complex is mainly in ruins except for Shirley
Heights Lookout. Restoration began in 1981 and was spearheaded by Russell Hodge, co-owner and Director. Russell had always been passionate about the Lookout's possibilities. This came into sharp focus on a Sailing Week morning, when having watched the races begin from Shirley Heights Lookout, he realised that persons were heading off to breakfast in English Harbour. The Lookout, now a successful business, is managed by sister J. Valerie Hodge.
   The tourists arrived in their
droves. The barbecue food was delicious, we
had ribs and chicken with salad. A steel band played from 4-6 and a local reggae
band from 8-10, a real party atmosphere.
The Lookout Restaurant offers excellent Caribbean food
with some world staples. It is open daily from 9 am to 10 pm for lunch and
drinks except Monday where it closes at sunset. There is a choice of dining –
indoors in the restored 18th century building or outdoors on the terrace.
Friday evening from 6 pm is Sips & Seconds when
Shirley Heights Lookout welcomes visitors and residents to sample the wonderful
dishes of Antigua, in a unique setting. To the gentle rhythms of the Steel Pan
Band, the terrace is transformed to a seated dining area with a choice of local
dishes in small bites – so you can try a little – think Antigua Tappas. With the
same wonderful views of English Harbour and the Dockyard with thousands of
lights, makes for an enchanting evening, especially if you have always loved the
idea of Shirley Heights at night. Reservations cannot be made for party nights - Sunday and Thursday. I rang and spoke to Jeanette who advised me to arrive early before the tourists arrived. She said Sunday was the best night of the week.
Jump and I exchanged gifts, a few tears and many memories, a very special place to celebrate twenty years of being the best of friends as the sun went down.
ALL IN ALL A PERFECT END TO
THE DAY.
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