Durbar Square
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Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Sun 29 Apr 2018 22:57
Durbar Square ![]() Three quarters of an hour bimbling
through Thamel, we arrived at the roundabout before Durbar Square. At first
glance all looked well until we saw the huge cracks in the
building behind and the tell-tale tarpaulin
covering a nasty scar.
![]() ![]() After paying our six pounds fifty
each entry fee (a tiny drop in the renovation pot), we headed toward the
entrance to see a huge amount of scaffolding in front of us. Inside the square, many, many knick-knack sellers. Durbar Square is
actually made up of two sub-areas, the outer complex is renowned for numerous
interesting temples, while the inner complex is the old palace area made up of
ten courtyards. Prior to the great earthquake of 1934 there were thirty five
courtyards.
![]() The scaffolding we had seen (now
behind us) covered Basantapur Durbar. Also known
as Nau-talle durbar, it was built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1770. This
dominant nine-storeyed Kathmandu Tower was built along with three other towers
named after three other ancient cities of the valley, Kirtipur Tower, the
Bhaktapur Tower and Lalitpur Tower. So pleased to see workers busily
renovating, a massive undertaking. Seems incredible that the buildings here have
stood the test of time but the earthquake of 2015 did so much
damage.
![]() ![]() To the left – utter devastation but
somehow the shell of the building defiantly
stands.
![]() On the opposite side of the square the
Sanskrit University is supported by sturdy
props.
![]() Props also support
this building at the end of this part of the square. This one looks
fairly sound.
![]() ![]() ![]() Kumari-ghar, a gorgeous, lavishly decorated building that
Bear just had to ‘trigger finger’ one of the
guardians as we passed. We stepped in to the quadrangle, supported by props (in and out). Built in 1757 by King Jaya
Prakash Malla, Kumari-ghar is the home of the living goddess who is considered
to be an incarnation of the goddess Taleju.
![]() The three-storey building is lavishly
decorated with fine woodcarving. We could take a
picture of the goddess-appearing window (not allowed when she appears), today
she was due at four o’clock, we were happy just to see the window. Several tour
guides wanted us to do the full Monty and offered their services. We declined
and minced on.
![]() On the corner, Gaddi Baithak. The eastern side of the palace is closed
off by this white neoclassical building. This imported European style building
was built as part of the palace by Chandra Shamsher in 1908 during the reign of
Prithvi Bir Bikram Shah.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We moved on and saw a variety of conditions.
![]() Pigeons thrive, no matter what.
![]() ![]() Nagara
Ghar, partially damaged. A pair of huge drums on a raised platform used
to warn of trouble, as the Durbar Square Armoury was close by. The outer wall on
one side has been destroyed on one side. Verdict – repairable and hopefully the
second drum can be replaced.
![]() Shiva-parbati
Temple. Very pleased to see this uncommon little shrine in fairly good
condition. Built on a three step brick platform and guarded by two handsome
chaps and Mahedev and Parvati peeping from the upstairs window. Constructed
during the reign of King Rana Bahadur Shah.
![]() Kal
Bhairav. This huge stone image of Bhairav represents the deity Shiva in
his destructive manifestation. It is undated, but was set in its present
location by King Pratap Malla after it was found in a field north of the city.
This is the most famous Bhairav and it was used by the government as a place for
the people to swear the truth.
![]() ![]() I took a picture of Bear then one over his shoulder as I wanted one of the monks without getting involved.....
![]() ![]() Me in the
rubble and a lady utterly soundo.
![]() ![]() ![]() Out of the square into
the colour of the vendors, a Chelsea cushion was a bit of a surprise. Above, yet more scaffolding.
![]() ![]() A corner shop with
an intriguing window.
![]() ![]() ![]() Colourful balloons with stunning antiquities and shrines. Time to
bimble back to our digs somewhat sad at all the damage.
ALL IN ALL SUCH AN UPHILL
BATTLE
INCREDIBLY
SAD |