Mindelo
This week has been all about chores and
checking. Bear has been a good boy and done his chaffe check, built my perch,
serviced the Duo-gen, put extra screws in the cupboard in our room (cos it
squeaked like fury in rough seas), sorted diesel pipe leak from filler end,
tightened outboard bracket and much more. The wind started the day after we
arrived and we have have had it solid like at Camarinas with up to 40.3 knots,
you don't see many yachties wandering around on the
pontoons in that. I have cleaned and hoovered
through, washing up-to-date with purchased water - via meter, sorted office,
cleaned fridge and a variety of other chores. I operated on my gum
again with the support of much vodka, removing a piece the size of half a small
finger nail, very jagged, that had been rubbing on a nerve causing all my woes.
Woke Bear up at 02:00 to show him, he was more concerned that the bathroom
looked like The Texas Chain-Saw Massacre. I said despite the claret, it felt way
better.

A typical
ex-colonial house, typically run down. The main
square, Cape Verdeans love bright colours, many buildings are bright
blue, yellow and orange. The banks are all posh with
plenty of marble. We braved the wind a couple of times to go explore the "city"
on foot. Compared to most cities we have visited this is tiny with few shops.
Mindelo (Mindel’
in Cape Verdean Creole), is a port town in the
northern part of the island of Sao
Vicente . Mindelo is
also the seat of the parish of Nossa Senhora da Luz, and this island's
municipality. It has a population of about 70,000 inhabitants (50,000 in the
mid-1990s) and is the second largest city in Cape Verde after Praia.
The town is home to 96%
of the entire island's population.

As we enterred we saw
this fortress perched on the hillside, high up above
the storage tanks and a closer look at the fortress.
History
There was a coal station in Mindelo during the times of steam
navigation built by the British, the
city was and remains a cosmopolitan city. The
Randall coal company was established for the
shipping routes of Europe, Africa, South
Africa, India, Australia and South America. At the beginning of 1875, the
firm, Cory Brothers plummeted coal prices to
increase the number of ships to 669 per year by 1879. When more ports were built
in Dakar, Senegal and in the Canary Islands, the number of ships declined
initially, but increased to serve about 2,000 ships per year in the 20th
century. In 1952, the coal camps were eliminated as boats switched to diesel.
In 1885, Mindelo was the switching station for the first
Trans-Atlantic telegraph cable. In 1912, Mindelo became an important
global cable station and became the cultural capital of the
Portuguese-speaking country/state along with the Lusophone capital
in 2003. The city is also considered as the cultural capital of Cape
Verde.

The Bob Marley
influence is out and about as we near the Caribbean proper, the live 'langoustines' as the
locals call them are caught and brought round the marina to buy out of carrier
bags. They are so laid back they don't bother to have claws. This chap weighed a
kilo and a half and cost £8.00. Huge steak from his
back and the finished dish ready to serve with local
salad bought from the supermarket, cost nearly as much as the
lobby.

A happy chore was to
decorate Beez Neez, her windows all have Christmas
stickers, lights all round the ceiling. We have an Advent
Calendar each, and the 'lucky bamboo' has been lametta-ered. Christmas tree baubled, Christmas candles set up, even our
chandelier has been hung with chocolate balls. No
comment - I know when now to keep it tightly zipped, even
my spectacles have stickers on.

This is Camboio Street, a typical residential
road.
Geography
The town is surrounded by mountains. A tan-coloured deforested
mountain lies to the east, and the smaller Vigia
mountain defines the west edge of the town. To the south lies a
range of brown deforested mountains Monte Cara, and the Morro
Branco peak lies to the northwest. The town is crossed by a river named
Ribeira Juliao. A little lower is another urban sprawl named
Lazareto which is much smaller and touches the lower parts of
the Monta Cara.

The Tarrafal Ferry, a new photo update of Jack, now in his baby-grow, transferred to Swindon and
weighing a stealthy 3 pound 4 ozs. A posh boat parked
behind us from Kingstown, staff keep her clean and ready for the off, she has
been parked here for over a year. Mindelo's deep-water port, Porto
Grande, is connected to Mindelo Bay, an underwater volcanic crater,
and is used for cruise ships and other commercial traffic. The Illheu dos Passaros, an islet at the entry of the
Porto Grande, is 82 m (270 ft) above sea level and has a lighthouse. There is a
ferry boat named Tarrafal that goes from Mindelo to Santo
Antao and back twice a day at 10:00 and 15:00, carrying up to 450
passengers (costing about £7.00) and about a hundred cars and
trucks.
The mostly Catholic locals have put up a crib in the town, complete with lit
figures.
Bear outside the Town Hall, and me hanging on to the railings in a huge gust of sandy-wind,
straight off the Sahara, last time I ever touch a Berber, ever since weather has
not run to form, even the locals say these winds should not be at this time of
year "blame me". Time for a local beer in the Club
Nautico decorated with "salvaged" flags and sails for the roof. Bear showing his
local brew and decorated glasses.
Economy
The economy consists mainly of 'business', fishing,
shipping, boating and more recently tourism. Mindelo has several hotels and
holiday apartments with evidence of many more in the process of being built,
although we haven’t seen any significant work being done. There is no apparent
wealth here but the people are welcoming, happy and pleased to come up and shake
your hand. We popped into a shop, the majority of stock is of lightweight
plastic via container from China. We found some black vinyl to cover the padding
on Pepes Perch, it was a small piece, last on the roll, very dusty and grimy.
The shopkeeper tried his best to wipe it, decided he was on a lost cause and
gave it to us, we had the money ready but we were waved away. That was such an
amazing surprise knowing how tough it is to make a living here.

The building I had admired from a distance sadly turned out to
be a wrecked ex-port authority building. Bear with the locals behind him playing a board game unlike
anything we know. Lots of noise and laughter, next to an impromptu market stall
selling "salvaged" buoys, anchors, gas cylinders, dive cylinders, a DINGHY ????
etc. We had been warned in the books 'if you don't nail it down, they will have
it' OR employ a stealthy looking bus-boy. We are in a slightly different
position being in a locked marina, we have a gate pass. The second you exit the
locals are about you offering just about anything, help with the boat, mother
will do our washing, taxi service, guides, necklaces, but, little do they know
we cut our teeth in Morocco - so bring it on !!!! A bed
shop with the bedsteads sitting in the road, the showroom in a
little need of some roof repairs.

Bear demonstrating how to get on,
I'm OK until I laugh and it all gets very un-ladylike. We shower on board as the
marina shower block is not built due to planning refusal, despite many
applications.

All in all a good week of chores,
exploring and DVD fests when it was just too
windy.
|