River Trip
Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Sat 10 Oct 2009 21:59
From Canaima or Base Camp, up
river to Camp Rustico - Falls Camp
Beds ready
for the off
We jumped up, breakfasted at seven
thirty, said farewell to our hostess until our return at eight and walked to the
beach. A canoe ride past our 'home' falls to the airport side of the
lagoon, then we walked for half an hour or so past the hydro-electric plant to a
part of the river where the Curiara can pick up tourists to take them to
Base Camp.
Bear
standing on a part of the hydro-electric station, beyond which the
curiara canoe was waiting
The canoe
park. Tepuy in the background. Our prop being checked.
Our luggage
in and covered, time for engine check
A bit of tar
being heated for some 'minor repairs' to the ones that leak
Our curiara was not in need of
repair, it held our party of seventeen, including our driver, bowman and guide -
Danielle. Driver at the very back with the engine, then the luggage, food, beer
and rum at the back covered in a tarpaulin and then the group arranged two
by two by weight order. Sadly that put us nearly at the back, not so much
we didn't like being there, just the fact that weight PUT us there. Our boat
engine was powered by a 48 hp, we did see some with 75 hp, all were a good
advertisement for Yamaha. The Curiara are massively built of wood with pitch
caulking drawing about six inches, which was just as well given the amount of
rocks we hit and rose over. We had our normal propeller changed for a 'rock
prop' when we left the main river. We only lost two on the journey and the boys
are very swift at en route repairs. When the need arises the bowman calls the
course and paddles like fury with an oar of the Warao pattern, to keep the nose
going in the right direction when fighting the rapids. The driver had to
continuously tilt the engine up and use it like a hand held food mixer with the
rock prop barely in the water. Any change in wind direction means a good soaking
from the bow wave.
My "view"
for several miles as I was perched behind Mike. Off we
go
Our Savannah
walk
The track
stretching ahead. The view to the left and Alan drew
this direction arrow when we turned off the track -
for the "dawdling Connie", I did wait for her in case she missed it
I was stop gap behind the group and in
front of Connie, I snapped this grasshopper when
a tourist held him for me. Mike had got a take off shot when Alan
sneezed.
Time for Bear
go and cool off and then picnic. Beds in
centre of small falls. Boats ready.
This is where Pat
became Sychronised Swimming Manager, my hip
may never be the same again. Time to rest and take
snaps. While I was getting my hip swung way too high, Anne enjoyed the sun.
After lunch it was back to the
journey but now we were beginning to see spectacular scenery with Tepuy after
Tepuy. Stunning. Whilst there was only a few rapids on the Rio Carrao, the run
up the Rio Churun involves nearly continuous rapid riding with very shallow bits
where the water levels change rapidly with the weather. Pat took a video of a
tiny leak in flat water and a small geyser when we were over rapids. Our driver
when he was not in full concentration of keeping us on the right course was
bailing like a mad thing.
Fred
enjoying the ride, is that a foot I see behind him -
yes, that's our oarsman resting while he can
Just a little of the stunning scenery
We had left base camp at an elevation
of around one thousand three hundred feet and rose around three hundred feet to
Falls Camp. Allowing for the falls at base camp that we had walked under, behind
and over meant we had risen about two hundred feet in the canoe. A few times
when we touched to bottom a few crew had to get out and walk around some of the
rapids. On the way up Devil's Gorge we all had to fend the boat off whilst
passing between the humungous mid-channel rocks, on our first attempt we
actually drifted backwards down river.
All our washing out, time for Branko to get some shots
Finally, all pretty cold and tired
after the seven hours including stops, we arrived at five o'clock. Refugio
Rustico was an apt name with everyone being allotted a hammock and space to have
a sort out. We all made use of the many washing lines to hang our sodden stuff
and settle to a well deserved beer, we all had a ration of four cans and of
course a bottle of rum for medicinal application to a cup or well received
coffee.
Bonus: This is the only camp directly
opposite the Angel Falls, the photo opportunities are endless.
Prepare for a fire, chop
the wood, prep the chicken
Our driver and oarsman soon got
down to building a fire and getting chicken on for a wonderful barbecue. There
is no running water or electricity but we did have use of a REAL ladies and
gentlemen toilet, lit by candle, that when used - no paper waste, we
cleared by bucketfuls of river water from a rain butt just outside the door. The
boys ran to and from the river replenishing the butts and worked really
hard to take care of us. After our tasty supper and lively chat we all fell up
into our hammocks. Leona gave us all a fit of the giggles by saying it felt like
small earthquakes when someone turned over and we were "to stop wiggling
please". There was the usual cacophony of snores and other 'noises'. I fought
and lost the fight for comfort and was hastily tipped out of my dog basket at
some silly hour called first light. Connie said I would thank her later when I
had got good early light shots of the Falls.
Bear
pointing as we take our first shots of the Angel Falls. That is a chickens NECK, I'll say no more and who would of thought a
toilet could be romantically lit.
ALL IN ALL YOU HAVE TO BE OF
STERN STUFF FOR THIS SORT OF ADVENTURE
|