River Trip

Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Sat 10 Oct 2009 21:59
From Canaima or Base Camp, up river to Camp Rustico - Falls Camp
 
 
  
 
 
Beds ready for the off
 
 
We jumped up, breakfasted at seven thirty, said farewell to our hostess until our return at eight and walked to the beach. A canoe ride past our 'home' falls to the airport side of the lagoon, then we walked for half an hour or so past the hydro-electric plant to a part of the river where the Curiara can pick up tourists to take them to Base Camp.
 
 
 
 
Bear standing on a part of the hydro-electric station, beyond which the curiara canoe was waiting
 
 
  
 
 
The canoe park. Tepuy in the background. Our prop being checked.
 
 
 
 
Our luggage in and covered, time for engine check
 
 
 
 
 
A bit of tar being heated for some 'minor repairs' to the ones that leak
 
 
Our curiara was not in need of repair, it held our party of seventeen, including our driver, bowman and guide - Danielle. Driver at the very back with the engine, then the luggage, food, beer and rum at the back covered in a tarpaulin and then the group arranged two by two by weight order. Sadly that put us nearly at the back, not so much we didn't like being there, just the fact that weight PUT us there. Our boat engine was powered by a 48 hp, we did see some with 75 hp, all were a good advertisement for Yamaha. The Curiara are massively built of wood with pitch caulking drawing about six inches, which was just as well given the amount of rocks we hit and rose over. We had our normal propeller changed for a 'rock prop' when we left the main river. We only lost two on the journey and the boys are very swift at en route repairs. When the need arises the bowman calls the course and paddles like fury with an oar of the Warao pattern, to keep the nose going in the right direction when fighting the rapids. The driver had to continuously tilt the engine up and use it like a hand held food mixer with the rock prop barely in the water. Any change in wind direction means a good soaking from the bow wave.
 
 
 
 
 
My "view" for several miles as I was perched behind Mike. Off we go
 
 
  
 
 
Our Savannah walk
 
 
  
 
 
The track stretching ahead. The view to the left and Alan drew this direction arrow when we turned off the track - for the "dawdling Connie", I did wait for her in case she missed it
 
 
 
 
I was stop gap behind the group and in front of Connie, I snapped this grasshopper when a tourist held him for me. Mike had got a take off shot when Alan sneezed.
 
 
  
 
 
Time for Bear go and cool off and then picnic. Beds in centre of small falls. Boats ready.
 
 
   
 
 
This is where Pat became Sychronised Swimming Manager, my hip may never be the same again. Time to rest and take snaps. While I was getting my hip swung way too high, Anne enjoyed the sun.
 
 
After lunch it was back to the journey but now we were beginning to see spectacular scenery with Tepuy after Tepuy. Stunning. Whilst there was only a few rapids on the Rio Carrao, the run up the Rio Churun involves nearly continuous rapid riding with very shallow bits where the water levels change rapidly with the weather. Pat took a video of a tiny leak in flat water and a small geyser when we were over rapids. Our driver when he was not in full concentration of keeping us on the right course was bailing like a mad thing.
 
 
  
 
 
Fred enjoying the ride, is that a foot I see behind him - yes, that's our oarsman resting while he can
 
 
 
 
Just a little of the stunning scenery
 
 
We had left base camp at an elevation of around one thousand three hundred feet and rose around three hundred feet to Falls Camp. Allowing for the falls at base camp that we had walked under, behind and over meant we had risen about two hundred feet in the canoe. A few times when we touched to bottom a few crew had to get out and walk around some of the rapids. On the way up Devil's Gorge we all had to fend the boat off whilst passing between the humungous mid-channel rocks, on our first attempt we actually drifted backwards down river.
 
 
 
 
All our washing out, time for Branko to get some shots
 
 
Finally, all pretty cold and tired after the seven hours including stops, we arrived at five o'clock. Refugio Rustico was an apt name with everyone being allotted a hammock and space to have a sort out. We all made use of the many washing lines to hang our sodden stuff and settle to a well deserved beer, we all had a ration of four cans and of course a bottle of rum for medicinal application to a cup or well received coffee. 
Bonus: This is the only camp directly opposite the Angel Falls, the photo opportunities are endless.
 
 
  
 
 
Prepare for a fire, chop the wood, prep the chicken
 
 
Our driver and oarsman soon got down to building a fire and getting chicken on for a wonderful barbecue. There is no running water or electricity but we did have use of a REAL ladies and gentlemen toilet, lit by candle, that when used - no paper waste, we cleared by bucketfuls of river water from a rain butt just outside the door. The boys ran to and from the river replenishing the butts and worked really hard to take care of us. After our tasty supper and lively chat we all fell up into our hammocks. Leona gave us all a fit of the giggles by saying it felt like small earthquakes when someone turned over and we were "to stop wiggling please". There was the usual cacophony of snores and other 'noises'. I fought and lost the fight for comfort and was hastily tipped out of my dog basket at some silly hour called first light. Connie said I would thank her later when I had got good early light shots of the Falls.
 
 
  
 
 
Bear pointing as we take our first shots of the Angel Falls. That is a chickens NECK, I'll say no more and who would of thought a toilet could be romantically lit.
 
 
 
 
 
ALL IN ALL YOU HAVE TO BE OF STERN STUFF FOR THIS SORT OF ADVENTURE