Barilletes
Beez Neez now Chy Whella
Big Bear and Pepe Millard
Thu 1 Nov 2012 18:54
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Los Barilletes Gigantes of
Sumpango We jumped up
this morning and joined a mini-bus leaving Antigua at seven thirty to travel the
half an hour to Sumpango. I crossed the road to take a shot of our first kite of the day, our driver got a parking spot
near a steep path up to the village, along the fence
were many traditional kites for sale and some modern
ones too.
We had no idea what to expect and our
first glimpse was a few kites at the far end of the football
pitch, the many toilets suggested this was a
well organised event with many spectators expected. We were pleased to be here
so early to enjoy the whole day at what was to be one of the most amazing
occurrences in Guatemala unfold.
Walking toward the kites already in place, we began to appreciate their sheer size, but up close they are truly massive
Bear’s favourite On November the first, visitors travel to
Sumpango or Santiago, Sacatepequez to stand in awe of Los Barilletes Gigantes,
the giant kites made specifically for the Day of the Dead in these two Kaqchikel
Mayan Villages. As large as sixty feet, the kites are decorated in figures,
landscapes and messages, resembling enormous murals or mandalas. From a distance
it’s easy to think that these kites are giant paintings, made or plastic or
nylon. In fact, they are collages on a fantastic scale, every image, indeed
every part of the kite is made from layers of hand-cut papel de china, semi
transparent, coloured tissue paper often used to line gift boxes. This slight
medium has been used for over seventy years and perhaps represents the nature of
life itself – magnificent and fragile.
The Day of the Dead is the culmination of
between six and eleven months of work for los barilleteros (the kite makers).
The kite festival on November the first, is the first time the barilletos see
the results of their labour when all the sections of the kites are glued
together with a backing of black tissue and mounted on a web of
bamboo.
We stood and watched as quick fingers wired the bamboo frame together at the start of the process. Next one group of lads lifted the frame as another group unrolled the kite.
Kite and frame safely in place – meanwhile another part of the group was digging the hole for the support post.
Up went the
post, not far short of a full telegraph pole - no shouting or panic –
once in place much back-filling and
tamping.
Finally we saw the kite
raised and tied in place, these bigger kites are just displayed not
flown.
All watched by the
enthusiastic and good natured crowd, more arriving by the
minute
In Sumpango there are over seventy five
groups of kite makers, over six hundred barilleteros – most of whom are single
young men and teenagers. They come from all walks of life: farmers, students,
electricians, architects and even lawyers. They
work from seven in the evening to one or two in the morning during the week and
most of the weekend beginning in July and finishing today. Barilleteros with
eight to ten years experience co-ordinate the making, teaching the younger ones
the methods, traditions and culture of their unique ‘hobby’.
Kites measuring eighteen feet or less are
flown, sometimes needing eight or more men to hold
the line as these colourful giants takes to the air, or in many cases hit the
ground on their maiden flight. Some live to try again, some suffer serious
damage and faces show abject disappointment. Some float gracefully down and the
crowd catches them quite beautifully and they return to their launch pad over
many heads. Others crash and Health ‘n Safety in many countries would cringe at
some of what we witnessed at a respectful distance. Each launch the crowd
cheered and clapped, each descent was accompanied by woooo’s and
arrrrrrr’s.
Many times we watched take off, land in the crowd and return for another try
The “smaller” flying kites are traditional
eight-sided Guatemalan kites, the octagon making a unique rounded as opposed to
a diamond shape. This octagon is thought to represent the Maya belief in the
four directions: North, South, East and West, with four additional points to
form a corona, the crown of the sun. Fringed paper is fixed to four sides. The
sound of the wind rustling this fringe is believed to keep away bad spirits.
Prayers and messages to the ancestors are traditionally placed on the string of
the kite and then are moved by the wind up the string. When the message joins
the main body of the kite it has been received and read by the loved ones gone
before.
Many kites are far
from traditional in shape, since the peace treaty of 1996 and led by a
group of highly creative barilleteros who call themselves “Happy Boys”, these
behemoths have become increasingly innovative in form and design - often the
result of builders, designers and architects.
ALL IN ALL – JUST
INCREDIBLE
A VERY DIFFERENT SPECTACLE WITH SUCH
ENTHUSIASTIC
PEOPLE |