Headwinds and Contrary Currents (17 June Mk2)
Where Next?
Bob Williams
Tue 17 Jun 2014 21:44
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Noon Position (17 June): 41 55.4 N 143 46.2 E Course: East nor' east Speed: 3 knots Wind: North nor' east, F2 – light breeze Weather: overcast, frequent fog, cool Day's Run: 48 nm (76 sailed and drifted) Considering the light, variable winds, calms, and contrary currents that we have endured over the last twenty four hours, we have actually made quite pleasing progress. We managed to claw our way around the south eastern point of Hokkaido, Erimo-Misake, at midnight only to find the breeze backing into the north nor' east, a dead muzzler. I feared that with the current also against us that gaining ground towards Kushiro was going to be difficult. Fortunately, while the wind and current have remained against us, the current has not been more than about half a knot and the wind has at least been relatively consistent. Overnight, once clear of Erimo, we opened out from the coast for three reasons. The first was that the Sailing Directions advises, contrary to what I would have expected, that the current is strongest close into the coast, the second was that there was likely to be fishing vessels and their nets, buoys and other hazards closer inshore, and the third reason was to get outside the busy shipping lane. Getting around Erimo-Mesaki was particularly challenging as ships were converging on it from several different directions and altering course around it, making predicting what ships were going to do what rather difficult, especially with the dense fog which frequently closed in on us. Once again the AIS proved its value many times over, and I was pleased to see that a number of ships appeared to alter course to avoid Sylph even though I could not see them, only the numbers on the AIS screen indicating their heading. Sylph's steel hull and superstructure presumably make for a good radar target, at least in these smooth seas. While fog for a mariner is always a menace and never welcome, one can still appreciate its beauty. Late yesterday evening towards sunset I was struck by such a moment as we were approaching the headland. The wind was very light, the fog was wet, soft. and white, Sylph was ghosting along through the smooth but slightly undulating sea, a light barely perceptible breeze kept her sails full, in the distance I could hear a couple of whales breathing. A bamboo pole with a raggedy black flag and the small brush of a tree branch attached to its end, a typical Japanese fishing buoy, appeared out of the shroud like fog, and slid past, close down Sylph's starboard side, and back into the wraiths astern. The whole atmosphere reminded me of one of those Hollywood movies, where the Viking long boat is entering the realms of the Underworld on its mythological quest. Fortunately no Kraken or the like appeared and several minutes later we emerged from the ancient eerie misty world and back in to the present reality of fog horns, ship engines and the search light beam of Erimo Masaki sweeping under the low cloud base. The wind remains light and progress towards Kushiro slow. I am remaining in touch with my fellow North Pacific voyagers through email and SSB radio. Sylph only has a receiver, but I am emailing my position to Brad on Suuhaa, the net coordinator, at around 0630 and he is sharing my position over the net at 0800. It is a bit of morale booster to hear friendly voices discussing their respective journeys, the weather and other things of mutual nautical interest, and hearing Sylph mentioned amongst it. It is a nice little community sharing information and looking out for each other as we head into a remote and potentially hostile part of the world. All is well. |