Steve & Carol
Mon 28 Jan 2019 19:06
We set off at about 9am to motor north - the wind in these parts tends to be from N-NW so we knew we would struggle to sail north - especially as there are so many shallows and reefs to avoid, the wind picked up and was stronger than we had expected reaching about 16 knots so it was a bit of a slow bash - we took the opportunity to make water on route. When we arrived we found 4 more of the rally group still here so we were able to get some local information from them before they moved on the following morning. We also chatted on the VHF to boats that had gone further north the day we arrived.
Soon we were approached by a ula with 3 local men on board for the $10 anchoring fee - it lasts a month but you have to pay even if you are only here for 1 or 2 nights - apparently there is a landing fee per person as well of $2 each - this is fairly standard and we had heard about such charges just hadn’t appreciated that we would have to pay at every stop - further north you pay per island group which is probably why more cruisers stay up there than venture down this way. We waited until the next day to go ashore and explore and set off with the other boats anchored for a walk to the town, on the way we had to walk through the village of the dead - on the way back a family was preparing a place for their grandmother who had recently died.
Walk to town along the coast and over Kuna bridges
The village of the dead
This family wanted pictures of their grandchild and allowed photos, one of the couples we were with spoke fluent Spanish and took pictures back the next day, I think the first lady is the grandmother but I'm not sure who the second one was!
Here, as in many of the villages they have traded the vine whipping for yellow or blue rope which looks like bailer twine.
The buildings otherwise are still built traditionally and they still use vine for the large supports.
Phone boxes in the middle of the village look rather out of place in its primitive surroundings!
Kuna toilets are basically built on piers over the water – these are upmarket ones on the main town dock