Bequia
Innamorata
Steve & Carol
Wed 14 Feb 2018 00:10
The whole of the Caribbean seems to be having strong winds and squalls
at the moment and Bequia is no different, we arrived to be greeted by a
nice squall, which was the daily theme for the first few days, we had to time
trips in the dinghy to avoid them and have got caught out and drenched a few
times, much better if we are on our way home than off out, on the bright side
its very warm and so it dries quickly afterwards, annoyingly it also rains every
time we do laundry and hang it out to dry! A plus side to the rain is that it
gives the boat a good wash, a down side is having to close the hatches which
stops the breeze coming in and it soon gets very warm in the boat.
Despite this we had a nice stay in Bequia, the bay is full of boats
and met some new people including a few Ocean cruising club members who
were anchored there, we also started listening to the OCC net in the morning –
well Steve has – its on at 07.30 so I'm usually still in bed! The shopping was
fair but prices for fresh veg vary wildly and the same stall will quote
different prices on different days, generally though the prices are high for
everyone including locals because everything is imported either from overseas or
from St Vincent, Bequia has no river or natural water supply despite the daily
heavy downpours of rain. The island also gets lots of cruise ship visits –
sometimes there are 2 there at the same time which for this small island seems
too much, prices at the fruit and veg stalls seem to be higher when there are
cruise ships in than on other days.
We spent some time with Julie and Richard from Escapade before they headed
off north to St Lucia (we really enjoyed their company and will miss them) .We
visited the Turtle Sanctuary with them, it’s been open since 1995 to look after
the endangered hawksbill turtles! I had read some pretty awful reviews about the
sanctuary and so was uncertain whether I wanted to go or not – however it’s best
to judge for oneself so we went along.
We took a taxi to the sanctuary and the scenery on the was across the
island was worth the trip.
Once there the driver waited for us and we were shown around by one of the
employees - not Orton King the gentleman who runs it. We were shown babies from
5 days old to 3 1/2 months and adult turtles the oldest of which was 23 yrs. The
babies are taken as hatchlings and were very cute to look at and probably the
only opportunity to see such little ones, the mortality rate is quite high but
lower than it is in the wild, we didn’t see any older babies though or any
1,2,or 3 year old ones so do not know where they were and I didn't think to ask
at the time! They are fed on tinned tuna – surely there must be a better food
source than processed tinned tuna! They eat jellyfish in the wild.
We were told that they are released at 5 years old although the owner says
on his web site they are released at 3 years old! I couldn't quite work out why
some of the older turtles hadn't been released – this one I was told is 17yrs
old, has been at the sanctuary all its life having not been released as it was
very pale, albino like as a baby, it did however get darker as it got older and
looked like all the others to me! When asked if it would ever be released the
answer was that our guide didn't know! It was being kept in a very small pool by
itself as you can see below, in fact most of the pools were far too small to be
considered humane!
Some smaller turtles were in quarantine pens like the tiny box below which
were around one of the bigger pools, however water could flow between the pens
so I'm not sure how they consider it quarantined!
There were 2 bigger pools with a variety of sized turtles in each – for
some reason I didn't get photos of them! There were definitely some damaged
older turtles with bit of flippers missing etc but some seemed to be there just
because they were, with no real explanation!
So I was left with mixed feelings about the sanctuary the staff seem to
genuinely believe they are doing good helping the turtle population, turtles do
get released (the owner says he has released over 2000 3 year olds back into the
wild so where were all the 1 & 2 year olds) some must survive however the
conditions weren't great -although I have no knowledge of how much space a
turtle should have it seem very sad to spend your life in a small pool with no
hope of freedom like the 17 year old! I have more questions than answers
now!
Back in the anchorage we had turtles popping up to breath around the boat
everyday – I did swim with one but the murky water made picture quality too poor
to add here.
Snorkelling was disappointing as the water was rather murky and the coral
not very colourful.
We got the kayak out for the first time since we have been in the Caribbean
– Steve even had his first go in it! It would be much more fun with 2 kayaks so
we could go off together on them but where would another one get stored!
On the north side of Admiralty bay is Fort Hamilton– it’s really just a
lookout with a few cannons but you get great views, as usual we chose to walk
there in the midday sun, it was a pretty but warm walk.
We was plenty of goats on route.
After 10 days we were ready to move on there is a let up in the wind for a
few days so we are heading
south. |