Great Beach, Roque Island Harbor - Far from the madding crowd

Martin and Elizabeth Bevan
Wed 6 Jul 2011 17:00

Position           44:34.45N 067:31.22W

Date                1800 – Wednesday 6 July 2011 (UTC -4)


All the guides say that going east of Schoodic Point is a major step into the outback.  They do not quite put a warning “There be Dragons” but the general inference is there.  Large tidal ranges, rapid currents and rock strewn passages are the warnings; sounds like an every day adventure in the English Channel.  The reward however is beautiful scenery, a lack of other boats and a feeling of remoteness.


Little Cranberry Island was not the quietest anchorage due to a large number of small ferries and other boats constantly coming and going; next time we use it we must anchor further into the anchorage away from the dock.  We slipped at 0930, very low water, and carried the tide for 6 hours heading east passing Schoodic Point and Island, Petit Manan Island and the various islands south of Jonesport.  The wind was light and coming and going but we managed some hours under sail alone and the remainder motor sailing with a little diesel assistance.  Visibility was also variable but good enough to see the various islands and their pink granite hard spots through the haze.  Poor visibility is a hazard of the course in this part of the world, especially in July and August when moist warm air at 72°F (20°C) meets the sea at 50°F (10°C) and produces fog.


The entrances into Roque Island Harbor all looked challenging on the chart.  In the flesh, especially arriving at high tide giving an additional 4m+ on the chart and with only a small ocean swell, the passage between Great Spruce Island and Double Shot Island was not quite as alarming as it first appeared.  The reward was arriving in a natural harbour backed by 2 miles of sandy beach.



An evening stroll along the beach was magical.



Crowded isn’t it?  Caduceus is the white speck in the distance.  Not much good asking the neighbours for a cup of sugar.


This is probably a far east as we will go although we will visit some other anchorages in the area before we head back west.  It is definitely worth the effort.


Oh, just in case you think standard are slipping in the outback, dinner tonight is tarragon chicken with baked potato wedges.