On our way to Rarotonga 17.02S 152.4W
Salsa af Stavsnas
Ellinor Ristoff Staffan Ehde
Sat 24 Aug 2013 16:53
This morning we left Bora Bora and as a matter of fact French Polynesia behind us.
We have been there since the 8th of June, when we landed in Fatu Hiva after 20 days at sea.
Yesterday we worked hard on getting ready to leave.
We also had to show up at le Gendarmerie to check out. And they wanted to see the whole family.
Ellinor inspected the rigg from 20 m above the sea and downward. But she left the rigginspection on deck for me.
And did I get a surprise? When checking all the shrouds etc, I have to lift aluminum tubes that covet the lowest part of the stays. And on the lower starboard stay a pin had left its place and layed just below on deck. That litle pin could actually have made our rigg fall down.
Well at least that motivates riggcheck!
And today as we rolled out the mainsail there was a hole close to the boom. So as I was navigating trough the pass Ellinor was repairing the main!
And what else? Oh yes we caught a huge Mahe Mahe 2 hours out at sea. It had the same length as the boat is wide at the aft.
It was a big fight to get it on board. Thank god we where sailing close hauled so it was easy for Ellinor to bring the boat to almost no speed.
The fish was almost swimming ahead of us. And it charged right up in the air.
As we hooked it and got it on board it would not give up, even with alcohol it would still fight. Scary! We actually gave it a last call with a hammer....
Then it was a blood bath in the aft as Ellinor cut the fish and made wonderful filets.It was a challenge to get all meat into the fridge.
We can almost close it, almost.
We had some of it for lunch, we had pickled ginger, wasabi, soysauce and lemon with it. MMMMMMMM!
Then Ellinor went to sleep and I felt that the floor in the galley was hot. The cooling system for the fridge had given up. And as the fridge was trying to cool down 10 kg of meat it was HOT.
So instead of washing the dishes I had to open up the floor and start looking into the water intakes etc. By some reason there was pressure on the water backwards. And finally I gave up and turned the cooling system around, so it cones in wher it used to come out etc. And it works! So after that I could make the dishes. And Erika who is getting big treated my heroic work with making some coffee. Yes she turns on the gas, boils, brews and so on...
Funny enought we are sailing close hauled towards Rarotonga, the main island at Cooks. This means also that we are sailing against the sea. That is a loooong time ago we had to do that! But the wind will veer as we move downwards, so we are counting on getting a different situation.
So summing up French Polynesia...
Marquesas are the most beautyful islands, we should have spent more time there. They are the most non turist destinations.
Tuamutos, well we ended up in only one atholl, but we are happy we stayed and learned to know that place. We loved it.
Tahiti, Ukulele lessons where fun. Papete is a uggly little town with charming people.
The society islands, very very nice, especially Tahaa. The only exception is Bora Bora. From a boaters point of view it is runned down.
Do not get us wrong, you can still go there and live in a bungalow over the water and look at pristine colors on the water.
But if you snorkel it is a disaster. At least where we went. And again, you could probably go diving outside the reef and enjoy great wildlife!
From a boaters perpective, to much traffic, to many signs closing off almost every bit of beach there is.
What made it nice was the yachtclub where we stayed, Maikiki can only be recommended.
Great pool for the kids, great restaurant with a laid back atmosphere.
But prices in Bora Bora.... forget it. Just pay.