Pay before the end of the month
Salsa af Stavsnas
Ellinor Ristoff Staffan Ehde
Fri 12 Jul 2013 02:31
Or you will be posted outside the store... This is a sign that meets the visitor to one of Le Magazines in the village. There are two local stores in Manihi and a bakery. The stores have most canned goods and some frozen. You can get onion, potatoes (pommes le terre) and cabbage (one medium sized head cost 7Euros). The prices are horrendous, even the kids who where keen on finding saturday candy (lördagsgodis) said no thank you when they found out that one caramel cost 2,5 Euros. But strangely enought newly baked baguettes at the Boulangerie cost only 0,8 Euros each.
The village of Manihi where almost everyone lives in this atholl, has about 600 inhabitans. They live in small concrete houses and everything is mostly neat and well taken care of.
As we went to the village yesterday (for us it is a long dinghy ride = 20-25 minutes) we ended up on their football field where they where preparing July feast. Lot's of women where sitting on the ground plaiting palmtree leafes, the result being big sheets that where laid on frames, the same way they built huts traditionally. But here they where building a big hall so everybody can gather for this weekends party.Erika expressed her wish to help and soon enought Lucienne a nice woman in the twenties was showing her how to do it. Ellinor grabbed one of these big palmtree branches and started to plait. The oldest woman, smiled and went over to show her how it was done. And soon enought half of the family was involved in the job. I was taking pictures, they liked me doing that, proud of what they where doing. Andreas fooled around with leftovers from the palm tree branches.
It was great fun to be part of the preparation and we plan on being there on Sunday celebrating with them.
This morning the kids and I went into town again (they loved it), Ellinor stayed on board and painted.
We went to the baker, Fernando and he was a talkative guy. I will go with him and his friends on friday night to hunt lobster, sounds like fun. We where invited inside the bakery and the kids got fresh bread right out of the oven.
After that we went down to the water and there was a lot of fish to be cleaned and as a result sharks where swimming around in the lagoon. Fun for the kids who finally got to see some (the only one seeing them so far was me when Im kayaking).
This is the best part of staying put, you start to know people that live here and as there are no other yachtes around we are better at getting in touch.
Fernando told me that it used to be a lot of boats coming here, mostly to see how the oysters where opened up and pearls harvested. He said it was a big event and a lot of fun. But they runned out of oysters and pearls so now very few yacths find their way to Manihi.
We also learned that the farming done in this lagoon is done with people that fly in from Papete.So it does not create any wealth for the local people. They rely mostly on copra and fishing.
Back to the boat, lunch with fresh baguettes and tuna fish sallad. The afternoon today we spent snorkeling around some reefs nearby. Lots and lots of fish!
Did I write that we fouled the anchor chain up? I was in the water guiding and Ellinor handled Salsa, to see what was going on at 14-15 meters depth I had to go down and check, come up and give directions. Ellinor had to handle 17 tons of boat half a meter in different directions, suddenly we had unwrapped the coral head that was more like a hook than a head. Now we have fenders on every 10 meter of chain, that makes it hang up from the bottom and when the boat pulls down the chain it keeps it straight anyway. Looks funny with a line of fenders sticking up in front of us.