The Tuamotu Atolls - like bowls with a crack in their rim through which you can sail to the inside and ENJOY!!
16 30.36 S 145 27.36 W We arrived here at this Tuamotu atoll called Fakarava on June
3rd. We timed the pass correctly and were able to enter the lagoon in
an uneventful fashion as the tides had reached their slack water point. Attention
has to be given to entering any of these passes into the interior of the atolls
as current flow of water into or out of the atoll can make it quite rough with
standing waves generated by wind against current. It was a great 50 nm sail
over from the last atoll, Kauhei where we had initially made landfall after our
3 day passage from the Marquesas. Had a great time the first evening with a shore side pot
luck evening...about 60 of us cruisers...good food....great interaction...and a
terrific Tahitian native host...he owns this absolutely, locally authentic small
self contained resort…which he has self-developed over the last 27 years
that he has lived on this little island on the rim of the atoll. He is a VERY
friendly, genuinely nice person and just wanted the chance to interact
with/welcome the cruisers "parked” in front of his home and to
also get a rare chance to speak English which he does perfectly. He just opened
"his home" to us for the evening with absolutely no interest in any
recompense....a TERRIFIC location...e.g. lighted water beside the deck where we
were all gathered with a number of sharks wandering through the 1 to 2 foot
deep water...and many kids - and a few adults - wading in to mix with the
sharks and other fish.....quite a scene. The morning before there was only 1
boat in this anchorage and they had just arrived to the empty anchorage that
morning; by the time of the next evening, 30 hours later, there were 18 boats
at anchor ....about 30 children between 4 and 12 and a mix of adults from early
30's to early 70's. This morning there are 21 boats at anchor as the sun came
up……after a few departures and arrivals yesterday. Yesterday, we had our first chance to experience the
marine life as we snorkeled the pass a couple of times with an easy drift swim
with the incoming current. There are hundreds of black tipped sharks that swim all
around you….and a few white tipped. No concerns of them bothering you….you
just have to get your confidence aligned with that reality. Initially there can
be a bit of anxiety if you haven’t had the chance to get used to the
underwater environment with sharks. This is an ideal location…..you can
snorkel/drift swim with your dinghy painter held in your hand and drift all the
way back to the anchorage…..and then repeat the whole experience again. We are likely to be here in the south end of the huge
lagoon of this atoll (the lagoon is approximately 12 nm by 33 nm...i.e 25km by
65 km...really a large body of water inside this coral rim) for a couple of
days before sailing north 30 nm along the inside eastern rim of the atoll to
the top of the lagoon where there is a "substantial" village (it has
a little magasin/store, boulangerie/bakery, fruit market, black pearl/jewelery
hut whose owner gives reportedly excellent tours of his pearl farm. And we
heard on this morning’s cruisers breakfast club radio net that the supply
ship from Tahiti arrived yesterday at that northern anchorage and therefore the
store should be reasonably stocked (keep your imagination about the word
"stocked" at a minimal level....a little bit of something is quite
extraordinary in our world; have not seen any shop for even bread or eggs, etc
for a couple of weeks. We have been fortunate to have an enduring supply of
bananas, grapefruit, oranges, papaya, mangos...that we picked up from fruit
trees and locals on our stunningly impressive, all day rental car drive around
the island of Nuka-Hiva, in the Marquesas, just before we left that
location 600 nm to the north-east a week ago. We have about 200 nm of cruising expected within the
Tuamotu Archipelago before we break off for a direct sail to Papeete, Tahiti
for intended arrival there on or about June 15-16. There is a 3 day (June 18 -
20) Tahitian/Society Islands Rally organized for us that is marking that
punctuation point on our otherwise unstructured calendar as we wonder this
South Pacific collage of rocks scattered in a HUGE ocean. We will be
departing French Polynesia before August 12th when our FP Visa expires. That
will still give us 3 months to make our way to Fiji via Tonga or Samoa and
reach New Zealand by mid-November for our planned 5 months there during their summer. |