Mulatupu & Mr. Green
09 11.19 N 077 58.56 W Mulatupu, which is the second largest village in the Kuna Yala
Islands. We arrived in the bay and found a Canadian, American and
Netherlands boats there. A gentleman arrived to announce that we would
meet Mr. Green and the Chief of Mulatupu at 3pm. We met Mr. Green at the
official building and he introduced us to the current Chief. We took care
of the official business, which was the payment of $5 to visit the village,
then Mr. Green took us on a tour of the village through the huts and
narrow walkways… and we knew we would not be able to find our way back to
the official building as the huts and dirt tracks all look the same. We
said many Olas to the villagers as they greeted us from their doorways and
windows. One very proud lady showed us her ‘Three Blind
Pigs’! The village is very clean, the dirt is swept and there
isn’t any litter on the ground. We saw the Dr’s house and
clinic, the hospital, school and sports field. The villagers are
extremely friendly and I took many, many photos of the kids, they love to pose
and then they would run back to me to see their photos on the digital
camera. The boys especially like to have their photos taken.
Although they have the whole island to build their huts, they build the huts
very close together, and one would think that there should be some odours
permeating the island due to the closeness, but they have that problem covered,
the outhouses are on stilts over the water, the huts that are beside the water
have their own outhouse, but there are communal outhouses for the villagers who
have huts in the village and not on the water. We certainly can
attest that the outhouses are working… as we arrived by the dock
and saw many special things floating in the water. They also
have the pig pens over the water so the pens stay clean and…well we have
all driven past a pig farm and know that special smell that assaults our
nostrils. This certainly takes care of the stench that sewers and farm
animals produce in close confines. We met Mr. Green’s mother and
sister, their huts have dirt floors, but they do have plastic lawn chairs to
sit on, they don’t have a lot of stuff and don’t seem to miss the
stuff, they have a fire to cook their meals, beds to sleep on and small patios
to sew their molas. You smell the burning wood throughout the
village, it really is quite nice. There is a generator on the island so
sometimes you would hear music coming from one of the huts. Our tour was
coming to an end, but Mr. Green had one more surprise for us, he took us into
the Congress. They meet at 7pm every evening to discuss the days
business. We came out of the sunlight into a very large room with benches
all around and as our eyes adjusted to the dim light we saw a gentleman lying
on a hammock wearing a gold leisure suit and hat. He is the next chief,
as they can only hold office for three years. He asked us many questions,
mostly we couldn’t answer them as Mr. Green’s English is very
basic, but we muddled along, said our goodbyes to the chief - this was a nice
way to end our afternoon in Mulatupu. Ola for now. We have now met up with our friends from Vancouver, S/V Kilkea
and it is good to be reconnected with long term cruising friends at the same
time as we keep meeting new ones. DTG to the Panama Canal entrance at Colon: 128 nm |