The HALF-WAY Point is nigh at hand > it will seem all "downhill" the rest of the way
06 25.95
S 113 29.16 W The
Pacific has lived up to our expectations of a much gentler ocean than the
Atlantic. We continue to enjoy a comfortable ride on the 2 – 3 meter
swells that keep you on your toes as you move around Sea Mist but none of that
treacherous, short period, washing machine, confused swell environment we
had come to expect on the Atlantic (occasionally 4 -5 meters on this passage
but even then they are long period, orderly swells). Not much to report on our passage but I will give one account of
our marine mammal friends who paid us a visit a couple of days back. The Pacific dolphins put on a spectacular show for us on Saturday
afternoon with them as close to Sea Mist as physically possible; in fact I
heard one whimper when he bumped our hull due to the density of dolphins right
at our hull and all around the boat. There were HUNDREDS of BIG dolphins in the
show…maybe a thousand or two…hard to tell as the water was boiling
with them as they swam, jumped, somersaulted, flipped, body slammed, and dove
all around us. What a thrilling exhibition…….the best yet in our 5
years of experiencing dolphins. They stayed with us for 15 minutes or more; Ian
eventually got the camcorder going since it appeared they weren’t going
to disappear “in a minute”….and I think he got some good
footage….not easy to do when you are standing on a rolling/pitching deck. Each morning I clear the deck of flying fish who have
unintentionally committed hari-kari overnight when the flew or were washed
on-board. For a few days last week it was a mix of squid and flying fish…perhaps
10 – 20 of each needed to be thrown overboard. The squid were so
plentiful and of decent size that we know of one European friend who concocted
a great squid recipe and found a better use for the road kill than my approach
of “overboard”. No time like the present to start
to plan where we are actually going and what we want to do in the Marquesas. Now
that we have done some reading and gained a better understanding of options and
sailing versus weather patterns in that Archipelago, we have altered our
destination to a different island than Nuka Hiva; we are now headed ever so
slightly further south and not so far west to make landfall at Hiva Oa where we
will handle (partial) formal clearance into French Polynesia; the full entry
process will be handled at Papeete, Tahiti when we get there a month or so
later. The arrival port is called Atuona, Taahuku Bay. This will
make it easier to get to some of the more south-easterly Marquesas group of
islands and not have to fight wind/seas on the nose from Nuka Hiva to get to
them….much easier to head North-West given the prevailing winds and seas.
We will still have to go to wind about 50 nm (better than 125 nm from
Nuka Hiva) to get from Hiva Oa to Fatu Hiva…the most beautiful of all
– in fact some travel reporters say that Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva is
the most beautiful place in all of the Pacific. We are considering making
landfall at Fatu Hiva but it is not an official Port of Entry and doing that
could put us in serious trouble with French Authorities if they decided to
pursue the issue. We may pick up more local intelligence from other cruisers
over the next couple of weeks that may relax us about going to Fatu Hiva, first,
and not worry about the formal check-in at Hiva Oa until after exploring
Fatu Hiva. Stay tuned….. The Pacific dolphins put on a
spectacular show for us later yesterday (Sat) as close to Sea Mist as
phyisically possible; in fact I heard one wimper when he bumped our hull with
all the density of dolphins at our hull and around the boat. There were
HUNDREDS of dolphins in the show…maybe a thousand or two…hard to
tell the water was boiling with them as they swam, jumped, somersaulted,
flipped, boddy slammed, and dove all around us. What a thrilling
exhibition…….the best yet in our 5 years of experiencing dolphins.
They stayed with us for 15 minutes or more; Ian eventually got the camcorder
going since it appeared they weren’t going to disappear “in a
minute”….and I think he got some good footage….not easy to do
when you are standing on a rolling/pitching deck. We have had constant sailable wind since leaving the
anchorage in the Galapagos; until the past 24 hours or so, we averaged 200 nm
per day with the highest 24 hour period reaching 212 nm; that is tremendously
fast passage making. The wind fell off yesterday and backed to coming more out
of the East. That has slowed us down to 165 nm in this last 24 hours. We are
now showing an ETA at Hiva Oa late on May 5th or early on 6th….time
will tell…..and wind will determine! We have remained on a beam reach at
85 degrees off the wind just letting it take us where it will as it swings
gradually from South-South-East to East-South-East and back again and again…..that
is wind out of 105 to 155 degrees magnetic and our course direct to destination
would be 253 Magnetic…..but not being able to make that, we do our best
to limit our southing but sometimes we have to go for hours on a couse of as
far south as 220 M…..not so productive on getting Distance Made Good to
Hiva Oa….but, overall, it is working out terrifically!! DTG to half way line: 58 nm DTG to Hiva Oa: 1527 nm Distance sailed to date: 1416 nm |