It's a shame

'Sarf & West mate, Sarf & West'
Pete Bernfeld
Tue 14 Sep 2010 17:51
Making preparations to leave Palmerston tomorrow morning, 15th, for Tonga. There is a very large storm in the Tasman Sea which is creating huge swells and although the storm itself won't be coming our way(fingers crossed, of course) the swells will be. The forecast is for 9 metre swells on the west coast of New Zealand, and up to 5/6 metre swells in Fiji and maybe Tonga, on Tuesday. Things are beginning to calm down here a bit now, we've had consistently high winds around 25 kts for a few days, almost since we arrived really, and the seas have been rough, although we are sheltered behind the reef. If the swell direction were to change, which it's forecast to do, this anchorage would become untenable; so, it's become a balancing act, wait for things to calm down a bit, but not too long before the forecast large swells roll in. Bread-making today, and prepare a large bean/mince stew for the 4 day trip to Tonga. At least the wind and swell will be behind us!
The people of Palmerston are very friendly and welcoming. There is a split in the community, some want 'the yotties' to visit and some want us to stay away and leave them alone. A compromise position has been that four families act as hosts and we only get permission for a three day stay, unless there is a good reason to stay longer; the weather is regarded as a good reason and everybody's stay has been extended with no problem. There are now seven boats in the anchorage and my guess is that by tomorrow night there will be none and the community will be alone again. Oh yes, we've had a pair of hump-back whales put in an appearance in the anchorage most days. They get VERY close to the boats, because although the moorings are attached in about 12 metres of water, it drops-off very quickly, we're currently in 74 metres of water. Yes, I have pictures.
Most cruisers are agreed that they are disappointed in the Pacific, not at all what we were collectively expecting, weather-wise. There have been some days when it's come up to expectations, but not that many. The people are wonderful on all the islands, but the anchorages are, in the main, very deep with uncertain holding and the seas have been quite rough on most of the passages. We fare better than most as we don't roll around (as much!), but most people will be glad to get to Tonga and stay put for six weeks or so before heading to New Zealand. All of the Oz-bound boats are in Fiji by now (or should be). There are a couple pushing on for East Australia, so we're hoping they haven't been caught up in this big storm, they should be well to the North and East of it, but can't afford to tarry.