A fascinating day
'Sarf & West mate, Sarf & West'
Pete Bernfeld
Sat 23 Jan 2010 03:07
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8:56.748N 77:45.223W
We left Puerto des Ecosses at 0900 and motored up
the inside passage to Mulatupu, taking a slow 4 hours dodging around shoals and
reefs. Actually, it wasn't bad at all and the Canadian Amel( Kilkea 2,(Marion
& David) followed us about two hours later. We dropped anchor and were
surrounded by kids in dugout canoes, some of whom could speak 'pocotito Ingles'
and others who could speak good Spanish (the local, first language is
Kuna).
After about twenty minutes, Mr Green arrived in his
canoe. He could speak some English and we understood that we were to report to
the local chief at 3pm. The Canadians arrived and 1.5 hours later we all went in
Trouters' tender to the dockside where the water taxis hung out.
We were met by Mr Green, who escorted us to the
'Congreso', the meeting house of the village to meet the 'Saila', the local
chief. We were welcomed to the village (for a $5 US fee per boat-fair enough)
and asked how long we were going to stay (two days). This was allowable and
after paying the fee I donated some pens to the school, which seemed to be
acceptable as well. Mr Green then gave us a guided tour of the town, I can't
call it a village because 2000 people live here.We were hoping to meet the
local teacher (also called Simon) who taught English and was writing a book on
Kuna customs. Unfortunately for us but not the kids the school was shut for two
months for an extended holiday and Simon was in Panama city. All was not lost,
Mr Green's English improved as the afternoon wore on and Simon got better with
his Spanish.
The school was impressive, 500 students and 12
teachers. There are two doctors, one versed in Kuna medicine and the other in
western. There is a hospital (shut, no patients) and attached to the doctors
house was a surgery. We inspected some Molas and had a cold beer. I donated a
spare pair of reading glasses to one of the lady Molas makers and was of course
asked by the Grandma of the family if I could give her a pair as well. On the
way back to the dingy, Mr Green invited himself and wife onboard tomorrow
afternoon at 3pm, after first inviting us for an evening meal of coconut rice at
5pm. He was goling to visit his farm tomorrow at Puerto Ecosse, but the Saila
called him to one side and as far as we can work out told him that as long as we
were staying near the village he should remain 'on site' and not go swanning off
anywhere else. I have permission to take some photos tomorrow, so it should be
another 'fascinating day'.
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