Monemvasía - Avelomona, Kíthera

Pyxis
Karen & Richard
Mon 7 Jun 2010 19:17

Monday 7th June – Monemvasía – Avelomona, Kíthera

36:13.549N 23:04.971E

 

This morning we were up and out early at 7.30am, the forecast being for north/north-west winds F4, perfect for heading south to Kíthera, about 30 miles away.  When we set off it was a windless, calm sea and we motored on waiting for the wind to appear.  It didn’t.

 

We headed down towards Ák Maléas, one of the twin capes at the bottom of the Peloponnese, with the reputation of being like a mini Cape Horn as three generalised depression tracks converge in the strait between here and Crete, bringing strong, gusting winds and confused seas.  Fortunately today was not one of those days. On the hillside is a hermitage from where the monks watch the shipping rounding this corner.

 

As we rounded Ák Maléas, there was a slight breeze and we were able to sail for a short time.  But then it was back to motoring and we arrived at the first harbour, at Dhiakofti just after mid-day.  This is where the ferry delivers people to the island; there is room for about 3 boats alongside the south side of the ferry quay and a large anchorage.  However, when we arrived there was a large motor boat taking up two spaces and a yacht in the other space and we decided that, if we were to anchor, we would rather do it somewhere pretty, rather than opposite a ferry dock, there is little else here.

 

Just outside Dhiakofti there is a large wreck prominent, the Nordland cargo ship which is perched up on the islet of Fidonisi.

 

So we motored on to the next place, Avelomona, a twin-headed inlet lying in the NE corner of Órmos Áy Nikolaos.  It is a small, very tight harbour and the pilot book warns that there is little space and to come in prepared.  When we arrived there was only one yacht here but it was taking up a large amount of the available quay space as it was alongside, presumably because when he arrived he was the only one.

 

We went stern-to the harbour wall just at his stern.  As the place was deserted, this was an opportunity for us to practise this manoeuvre on our own (usually there are others around to help).  As we also had the dinghy lifted onto the back, it was quite a challenge but we managed fine.  Shortly after, a single-handed German yachtsman arrived and we helped him in beside us.  Tonight a motorboat and a small yacht have squeezed in around us and the place is suddenly full.

 

I went for a cooling swim when we arrived and Richard went for a walk around the tiny village.

 

Kíthera is a bit remote as places go, in fact the most remote of the Greek islands, along with its sister Andíkithera, and less touristy than most places in Greece.  Kíthera claims to be the birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite (but so does Cyprus). 

 

Tonight we have had a walk around this tiny hamlet.  The other tiny cove is very picturesque, with wild thyme growing, scenting the air.  On the western headland the Venetians built a small fort, the ruins of which remain today.  There are also many small holiday villas and a few tavernas but at the moment it is very quiet.  The wind has also arrived at last – just when we don’t want it.