Khania, Crete (Nisís Spinalonga)

Pyxis
Karen & Richard
Tue 15 Jun 2010 22:58

Tuesday 15th June – Khania, Crete (Nisís Spinalonga)

35:31.123N 24:01.153E

 

We were up and out by 7am for the long drive to the small island of Spinalonga, over on the east of Crete.  I wanted to visit the island having read ‘The Island’ by Victoria Hislop, to see the setting for her novel based around the leper colony that was there in the 1900s, the last lepers not leaving until 1957.

 

The drive was around 3 hours and once there, we parked in the small village of Plaka, also featured in the book, and took the ferry across to this tiny islet.  As we walked through the tunnel and into the town, it was like being transported into the novel and the descriptions of arriving there (a bit of artistic licence, in fact, as this was not the main entrance). 

 

Some of the houses have been restored and have information boards in them.  However, most of the history is of the Ottoman/Turkish occupation, the Venetian fortress (yes, another one), and of the exported goods of the region, rather than about the leper colony.  It is not really necessary for there to be any information however – it is enough to walk around the island and see the accommodation, the church, the hospital building, the dormitories and the graveyard to give you a sense of what it must have been like there.

 

As usual, the Venetian fortifications were very impressive and we went exploring ‘off piste’ and ended up at the top of the rock with glorious views; the anchorage in Spinalonga lagoon looks lovely if we get down this way with Pyxis.  After our long walk around Spinalonga we were very hot (it is mid 30’s every day now) so, back on the mainland, we changed and went for a swim off the beach in Plaka to cool off – it was wonderful. 

 

After this we drove back to Elounda, a small town which has arisen as a tourist resort complete with Kiss-Me-Quick hats and luxury villas.  It is quite attractive as a tourist resort but we didn’t stay long; instead we headed off to the larger town of Áy Nikolaos, where there is a marina which hosts a live-aboard community in the winter.  Having met a couple who keep their boat there and recommend it, we were interested in taking a look for ourselves. 

 

After a drive through town, somehow managing to find some steep narrow one-way backstreets on the way, we went in to the marina and had a chat to the marinaros who then let us wander around to check it as a potential winter place for Pyxis.  I can report that the marinaros were very friendly and helpful and the facilities were good, so it goes on the list, although it does get severe southerly gales in the winter. 

 

On the way out of town, we stopped for a quick look at the small inner lake, Almira Limin, in the old town.  Although said to be bottomless, the pilot book says it is about 67m deep and an old volcanic crater.

 

We then headed back and arrived here at Khania around 8pm, returning the car and heading back to Pyxis, shattered.  It’s been a great but exhausting two days. 

 

Spinalonga

Plaka

Elounda

Áy Nikolaos

© Pyxis 2010