Epidavros - Methana (Something rotten?)

Pyxis
Karen & Richard
Mon 17 May 2010 22:58

Monday 17th May – Epidavros – Methana (Something rotten?)

37:34.657N 23:23.275E

 

We were woken around 4am by the wind howling but managed to get back to sleep.  When we woke again all was quiet and we decided to continue with our plan to make the 17 mile hop around the Methana peninsula to Methana before the forecast winds returned again in the afternoon. 

 

Just after 9am we slipped our lines, pulled up our anchor and headed out across Kólpos Epidavros towards the Methana Peninsula.  As we approached the peninsula the wind filled in gently and we were able to have a pleasant sail with the wind on our beam, clipping along at 6 knots with the islands of Angistri and Aigina away to our port side.  Sadly our sail was short lived; as we came into the lee of Angistri the wind dropped and the motor went back on and we had to donk the rest of the way.

 

The Methana Peninsula is a dormant volcano and Methana is known for its therapeutic sulphur baths beside its small harbour.  We entered the harbour through its narrow entrance between the rocks, and eased our way in, checking the depth carefully as we went as it is quite shallow.  In the harbour, the water is cloudy due to the sulphur, with the smell of rotten eggs from the hydrogen sulphide bubbling up.  Fortunately there was enough depth and the harbour master was there to guide Grand Slam and us into a couple of berths.

 

Methana is definitely an olfactory experience; the Pilot book tells us that the village above Methana is called Vromolimani or ‘stinking shore’.  We are stern-to the sulphur baths which are closed at the moment.  We are pleased that the fumes are not too strong today with the breeze keeping most of the smell away, not sure what it would be like on a hot summer day with no breeze.

 

There is one thing about this harbour, the rates for keeping a yacht here for a year are incredibly cheap (if you don’t mind the smell).  In addition, due to the sulphur, boats are reported not to suffer with fouling.  As we are expecting to be here a couple of nights we are hoping the sulphur in the water will help clear the small amount of fouling on Pyxis’ waterline.

 

This afternoon we went for a walk around the small town.  A large ferry came speeding in whilst we were by the ferry quay and we were amazed as it spun and held itself stern-to the quay, broadside to the wind, hanging on its anchor and powering against a single stern spring as it unloaded and loaded passengers.

 

This evening we ate with Pam and Andy ashore at a nearby taverna, very basic but given rave reviews for its sardines by the skipper of a German boat that is waiting out the weather here.  I tried them and they were very good (Richard opted for the gyros).

 

Methana

© Pyxis 2010