position S09 01.300 E159 08.200
Ocean Rival Journey Log
Adam Power Diana Power
Sat 29 Jun 2019 00:02
Thursday 27th
The wind did return in the
morning and we were able to sail into the Russell group of
islands and then threaded our way under engine through islets
and reefs towards an anchorage marked on the chart in Nono Bay.
The navionics chart is accurate and detailed enough to rely on
for picking a route through deep water.
The position marked for the
anchorage however didn't look suitable, only giving feasible
depth very close to the shallow coral fringe. We were soon met
however by a large canoe filled with children and the student
ambassador Clinton.
We have noticed in a few
places that the 1st contact with a village is not the chief but
a presentable young high school student and here Clinton had
been given the job. The children swarmed over the boat while
Clinton directed us to an anchorage round the back of the little
islet on which the village of Nono sits. The village is a one
family affair- 200 or so relations on one little island could be
a recipe that Jeremy Kyle would enjoy diseminating.
We pursuaded Clinton to gather
his clan and give us some time for a swim and cup of tea before
meeting his uncle, the chief.
The chief came over to see us a
little later and was rather depressed about the lack of income
for the village. They used to produce copra but the collapse in
the price means that they now have no regular income. Sometimes
they are allowed to harvest Beche de Mere (sea cucumber) to sell
to the chinese but it is restricted to certain times of the
year. The loggers had been and gone a couple of years ago and
there did seem to be resentment at the lack of environmental
responsibilty and financial recompense. He asked if we had a
small compass we could gve him as he used to have one given by a
french boat that no longer worked or was lost. I do have my hand
bearing compass which we need but no small walking compass on
board so was unabe to oblige. Instead he asked for some cash for
the anchorage and we gave him our last few solomon dollars.
I asked if I could ride back to
the village with him in his canoe. He was worried I would upset
the boat but we managed to reach shore without mishap.
The village is strung out along
the shore and a few new houses are under construction. Lots of
lumber sawn and ready to build with. The young generation were
building up on a higher ground above the main village and the
anglican church was also on the hill. The water is piped across
from a stream on the main island but they have had more problems
with the pipes. Clinton is studying Law at college and the chief
had encouraged him as they need the services of a lawyer for
land issues. The funding for his education however isn't
currenty shared by the village but rests with his parents. The
chief did think that some sort of village assistance would be a
good idea but culd see that there would be problems later when
it came to paying for Clintons services.
There was some lovely
percussion music growing louder as we walked and some boys were
playing an amazing pipe drum made with water pipe struck with
old flip flops.
I hope the boys hadn't been
pinching the water supply pipe. I was moved to do a little dance to the rythm but the girls didn't join in. The chief was quite keen to return to the boat in the morning for tea and a chat although I warned him we would try and make an early start. Evening view of the village. |