position S16 46.695 W153 57.031

Ocean Rival Journey Log
Adam Power Diana Power
Sat 26 May 2018 01:15

Friday 25th May. Maupihaa.

The plan to anchor off the pass worked fine albeit rather a rolly night as the wind crept round the end of the island. With a narrow shelf between the reef and the deep water we managed to hit it spot on with the anchor, which rattled occasionally in the night as it dragged across a rocky bottom. Weirdly as we approached the island in the dark we could hear the persistent grumbling chatter of terns over our heads but couldn't see them.
At 1st light the pass became evident just about- a couple of colourless posts indicating the line. The Navionics chart was pretty spot on again though and we crept through the narrow pass into the lagoon with at least 3m under the keel.
The attoll is very similar to the Tuomatus that we passed last year but this one even less developed. A pair of attractive and well built young women greeted us on the beach and told us that the population is currently 15 people and confirmed the name as Maupihaa in tahitian-Mopelia in French. They offered us bicycles to explore the unmade road but we thought a walk would be more pleasant to begin with. Further along the beach a young tattooed man with a wide toothless smile told us that the copra boat comes only once a year and that the fish in the lagoon are not very plentiful but hands to the sky declared he was very happy with his lot. Further still we were met by a pack of excited dogs who brought out an attractive lady who turned out to be italian. She had a rather complicated story as to how she had come to be living on Maupihaa via Tuomatus and Maupiti but she had a very lovey house made of traditional timber and coral walls and banana thatch roof with with refinements such as bookshelves and photos, a separate bedroom on the beach and dining room behind. She seemed rather torn between returning to Italy and her life on the island with her dogs and her partner who she regretted was somewhat materialistic with his Copra income. When she was in the Tuomatus she lived with a couple on a tiny island and was truly independant of the outside modern world.
She kindly invited us back to supper this evening so we will meet her partner and maybe another pair of yachties.
Back at the boat for coffee we realised that there were several sharks swimming round us. I quickly grabbed the snorkle to have a look and admired the small pale black tipped reef sharks cruising around. However when a much larger all grey chap diverted towards me I beat a hasty retreat up the ladder. I am sure it wouldn't have had a bite but he was certainly big enough to do some damage.