Monday 17th June

We reached Utupua just after lunch. It has a  reef and a pass reminiscent of Tahiti but not so surf strewn and the pass was easy to negotiate. I had a look at anchoring just inside the pass but the wind was howling over the reef in an unfriendy way and the chop lively. The nearest point with shelter was off a village just inside a deep bay and as we anchored a sailing canoe aproached and a group of 5 lads skippered by Richard  introduced themelves. We were fearful of another intense session of gift exchanging but Richard was very pleasant and left us to sort ourselves out, promising to return with oranges out of which we had run and would be happy to find something to exchange.  

I fixed the guard wire which had parted when the spinnaker pole dropped on it, stowed the broken pole and had a go at straightening the mast to pole bracket which was twisted. Richard was back with oranges and helped apply some leverage. He has been studying carpentry in Honiara and had previously completed a course in church administration if I understood him correctly. The village is only 300 strong but has a high school and Richard is up to speed with the system and is applying to the MP for the region to get himself kitted out with tools and a generator.

I found some hooks for the oranges and a pair of old reading glasses that he said his father would use. He then asked if he could  copy some music onto his phone and went off to fetch it.

He said he liked country and so I copied a few of my most country like albums onto his memory card, some Bob Dylan, James Taylor, SeaSick Steve and John Cale. I hopehe isn't too disapointed.  It was only after I finished copying that he mentioned that his phone speaker wasn't working so he couldn't listen to my choices. He eyed my walkman and headphones enviously but then admitted that he has another phone with a jack plug so we found a little speaker which he took with him. He also spotted a pair of  safety glasses and as I had two pairs I suggested he take one.  We will be cleaned out of spare stuff quite thoroughly quite soon so hope we can stock up with some barter goods in Honiara.

Tuesday 18th

Anchor up at 5am to try and make the port of entry on Nendo before dark. The wind was lighter and progress not quite suffiently quick so we anchored at dusk in a bay before  the narrow passage through to the bay with the town. We hit a squall approaching the island and the poled jib backed breaking another pole end fitting. I shall have to stop poling out the jib if I can't take more care with the the poles. The heavy rain hasn't stopped since we hit the squall and the chain is rattling on a rocky bottom. Doesn't look hopeful for a quiet night.