Marquesas - Nuku Hiva - Tapivae

Mon 5 Jul 2010 18:44
Our last Marquesan anchorage, in which we spent tranquil nights as the only boat. Our intention was to walk from here, via the Teavaitapuhiva pass (with magnificent views) to Hikokua, Kamuihei and Tahakia archaeological sites, an essential visit for Caroline who has become addicted to Tiki. We set out on roads that were more suited to horses than cars, our senses treated to the scent of flowering shrubs, fantastic singing birds and the occasional wild pig popping out of the undergrowth. The wild pigs acted most aggressively (they are hunted on horseback), especially the sow with young and we gave them a wide berth, as tusked pigs are probably best avoided.
We intended to hitch a lift, but there were no cars until we neared the pass at 1500 feet, then the first thumb resulted in a lift to the sites, near the village of Hatiheu at the bottom.
Murray is convinced this tree at the Kamuihei site only grew so big because it is around a pit, from the days of human sacrifices.
More Tiki - this is Caroline's favourite
The views of Hatiheu bay were stunning and as we had hitched a lift back we were worried that we would not get a chance to photograph them. Our fears were unfounded as the local from Tapivae (who gave us a lift all the way back) stopped at all the viewpoints for us to take photos showing the typical Marquesan hospitality. We have hitchhiked without any problem in the Marquesas - they will always give you a lift. We will be sad to leave here, for the Tuamotus - previously called the Dangerous Archipelago - and not without good reason.