Marquesas - Nuku Hiva - Tapivae
Salamander
Mon 5 Jul 2010 18:44
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Our last Marquesan anchorage, in which we spent
tranquil nights as the only boat. Our intention was to walk from here, via the
Teavaitapuhiva pass (with magnificent views) to Hikokua, Kamuihei and Tahakia
archaeological sites, an essential visit for Caroline who has become addicted to
Tiki. We set out on roads that were more suited to horses than cars, our senses
treated to the scent of flowering shrubs, fantastic singing birds and the
occasional wild pig popping out of the undergrowth. The wild pigs acted most
aggressively (they are hunted on horseback), especially the sow with young and
we gave them a wide berth, as tusked pigs are probably best
avoided.
We intended to hitch a lift, but there were no cars
until we neared the pass at 1500 feet, then the first thumb resulted in a lift
to the sites, near the village of Hatiheu at the bottom.
Murray is convinced this tree at the Kamuihei site
only grew so big because it is around a pit, from the days of human
sacrifices.
 More Tiki - this is Caroline's
favourite
  The views of Hatiheu bay were stunning and as we
had hitched a lift back we were worried that we would not get a chance to
photograph them. Our fears were unfounded as the local from Tapivae (who gave us
a lift all the way back) stopped at all the viewpoints for us to take photos
showing the typical Marquesan hospitality. We have hitchhiked without any
problem in the Marquesas - they will always give you a lift. We will be sad to
leave here, for the Tuamotus - previously called the Dangerous Archipelago - and
not without good reason.
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