Into the Caldron

Blue Magic
Mark & Chris Dewey
Sat 8 Oct 2011 07:44

Position 36:27.5N 25:22.6E

 

Sorry no photos until we have Wi Fi again – so I will try and describe the island of Santorini to you….

 

 WOW  !

 

Santorini - the relic of what was probably the biggest volcanic eruption of all time.

The main island is a horseshoe shape of vast multicoloured cliffs that encircle the rim of the crater that is now filled with water to depths of 300 metres.

Immaculate white buildings nestle on top of the cliffs, many of the dwellings in little niches hewn into the volcanic rock.

Huge, majestic cruise ships settle at the bottom, dwarfed by the high rock.

 

It is impossible to anchor in most of the caldron due to the huge depths so we found a mooring buoy on the Northern tip of the horseshoe just below the pretty village of Oia (pronounced eea or ear).

There are no facilities at sea level other than a couple of fishing huts and a tiny Taverna built into the rocks so we set off to explore the village above us.

We took the dinghy to the Taverna, where there appeared to be some steps up the cliff, only to be informed by a local fisherman that a section of the steps had fallen into the sea and so there was no access.

 

So we landed the dinghy on some smooth pebbles and climbed along the rocks until we found a gravelly path with rough steps that took us on a steep hike 300 metres up to the top.

It was a different world at the top, beautiful white, dome topped buildings in a maze of narrow, pretty streets.

Packed with American tourists from the cruise ships, however it didn’t diminish the impact of the fantastic views across the Caldera.

 

Early evening the tourists headed back to their ships, the village calmed and the restaurants began to open their doors.

We didn’t relish the thought of climbing back down the cliff in the dark so we settled for a beer whilst watching the sunset and made our way back to the boat for dinner.

 

Next day we braved the climb again and took the bus into the main town of Fira in the centre of the horseshoe.

A 20 min trip for the bargain price of 1.60 euros.

 

The views from the edge of the Caldera in Fira were breathtaking.

I was particularly fascinated by the doorways that seemed to perch on the cliff edge with spectacular views but no sign of any building behind them.

Once you entered the doorways, steps led away below to beautiful buildings and courtyards set into the side of the cliffs.

 

We wandered around the chaotic pedestrian alleyways, browsing in the little shops and we found a Chinese restaurant for lunch, which was a welcome change to Greek menus. We were amazed that the restaurant was filled with Chinese people, the first we have seen in Greece – where did they all come from ?

 

Today we are leaving Santorini for the nearby island of Armorgos to find a secure anchorage protected from the Southerly gales that have been forecast for the weekend.  

 

A good plan as the old legs need a rest – all my muscles ache from the climbing !