Necessity is at Isla Zealous by Canal Messier
Eva and Jan Fr. Mack
Tue 20 Dec 2011 22:29
We have made another significant jump south. We are now in Canal Messier with extensions that lead down to the Magellan Strait. Getting here from Melinca meant 24 hours inshore and 24 offshore. The first was in a magnificent fjord landscape not unlike home. Sailing at night was quite all right even though there were a lot of traffic. The salmon farms are all around, and the support vessels often have Norwegian names. I am afraid Norwegian interests are guilty of quite a lot of this intrusive activity. We also had to sail offshore for 130 nm around Cape Raper and into Golfo de Penas. I have seldom seen more warnings about a stretch of water. The weather window was, however, good enough. Not comfortable, but not at all dangerous. It was a quick passage through these treacherous waters.
All the time we have been on the watch for whales. There are supposed to be blue whales up in Golvo Covacado, but none were seen. Down were we are now there are, however, huge numbers of whales. There are literally sprouts everywhere. But what are they? We have definitely seen some humpbacks and some orcas. The big numbers are, however, something else. I suspect minky whales, but it could also be fin whales. The size fits with minky, the shape with fin whales. I will post a picture in our regular blog once I get internet access.
Necessity is anchored in a very scenic, and very little bay. It is like a "hole in the wall" in this small island with mountain peaks of 670 meters. We are attached to the ground by one anchor an two lines ashore. Very safe, and quite lot of hassle. Particularly since we, Bjarte and I, ended up swimming next to our overturned dinghy. I swear that this was before the "anchor celebrations". To reveal details would be too painful. I haven't ended in the drink since Madeira six years ago. Was the water cold? Probably, since there are glaciers in the neighborhood. Our foul water gear works well, however, and once we got the clothes off, the inner layers were still partly dry. It is cold here, so there are many layers.
I have a special message from Hans-Jacob to Lise. He does get seasick after all. It was his wish that I write this. Authors note: Hans-Jacob gets seasick in a very civil manner. I did not experience first hand any of the repercussions most people are so willing to share with me - cleaning up the mess. He even insisted on doing his watches. I am impressed.