Raiatea

Oyster Moon
Paul Foskett & Rhu Nash
Sat 2 Jun 2012 01:40
Position 16 43.73 S  151 26.61 W
 
Raiatea 28th May to 2nd June
 
Left Huahine at 0800 and entered Raiatea via Teavapiti pass.  Karacool under sail to Raiatea:
 
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Oyster Moon going upwind of Karacool (Annie and Raiatea in the background):
 
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Waves crashing on reef at entrance of pass.
 
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We had intended to go to Marina Apooiti  but Karacool did a swift left turn before reaching there, and we entered Uturoa town dock which was empty.  Tied up and stayed here for 5 nights.  Shock horror no launderette.  Paul and Stephen cycled up to Apooti Marina to find a sail maker as both Karacool’s and our parasailor have ripped again.  Ours seems to be catching on the anchor.  Back to launderette – one at marina – whey hey.  Uturoa is capital (!) of Raiatea but the good thing for us was that there was a large supermarket about a minute away from the town quay.
 
We hired a car for 2 days.  Raiatea has the biggest marae in Polynesia – although how would people know when all the islands are covered in lush tropical vegetation. 
 
Marae –personally think the one’s in Nuka Hiva were more impressive but hey.
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View from headland on Raiatea of fringing coral reef.
 
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We stopped and had a mega-expensive coffee at a little hotel- but the view was fabulous:
 
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Picnicked in municipal vehicle car park along with tractor’s, buses etc., but strangely no snowplough.  We took the only overland road on Raiatea where there were apparently two viewing points.  We could not find either but we did find either someone’s backyard or former radio mast point.  Here’s the boys viewing:
 
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Breadfruit is one of staple crops here.  I’ve eaten it before in Seychelles where you cook, mash it and then fry it like coquettes.  Was Ok done that way, in Polynesia it is just boiled and is very dry.  Anyway, here’s the breadfruit tree
 
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and here’s the breadfruit:
 
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Whilst at Uturoa we kept hearing lots of drums in the early evening ad finally investigated them.  We discovered a Polynesia band and dance group practicing on the inter-island freighter quay.  Music was fantastic – drums reverberate through your body.  We have heard drum all over the Tahitian islands and suspect that some island and then interisland competition is forthcoming.  A very hot Keith, Annie and me listening to music.  Unfortunately pictures of dancers did no come out.  Afterwards we went to roach bar where had great steak, chicken and beef chow mein.  certainly one of the cheaper meals we have eaten out so far.  Hot chips as well.  Usually food is served luke warm.
 
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A big Japanese cruise ship came into Uturoa and the tourist attractions were laid out all over the island. Here’s a model Polynesian ship:
 
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You can see why the Polynesians are accredited with inventing the catamaran and how they could colonise the Pacific islands using these boats.
 
We found Uturoa town quay very noisy between 1600-1800 whilst kids were waiting to catch ferry home to other parts of island (and other islands).  They collected in groups and tried to outdo each other with ghetto blasters.  Showing our age now, as I used to do exactly the same thing but at least the music was good!!!!  On our last evening Paul cooked curried king prawns and whilst having a drink on deck afterwards a local asked if he could have some wine.  We gave him the rest of the carton as a gift and when he realised he offered us some marijuana as a gift.  We said no, of course.  The next day- after we had left – a man came and gave to Annie some bananas, for Karacool and us, as a thank you for the wine. 
 
Parasailor fixed on time so we left Uturoa at about 0930 on 2nd June.  Fuelled up and re-watered at gas station just up from Apooti Marina.