Azores - Horta on Faial

Aurora_b
Mike and Liz Downing
Mon 30 Jun 2014 21:12
Can't believe that we've been here 2 weeks already. It's
a lovely place and if only we could we would be happy to stay
quite a bit longer. Horta has the same sort of atmosphere as St Peter Port.
Lots of yachts going here there and everywhere, fishing boats coming and going,
regular ferry boats and whale watching boats, and the occasional cargo ship. So
there's always something going on and lots to see. The visiting yachts, and
there must be 60 or more of all nationalities, are mostly rafted out 3 or 4 deep
against a couple of the marina walls and that adds to the atmosphere. We were 4
out when we arrived, but with boats leaving we're now against the wall, so it's
easier to leave the boat, knowing we haven't got to move to let someone out. The
downside is that we have other crews marching over our foredeck whenever they
want to get off and on, but it's not that bad.
Quite a lot of the 2 weeks has been devoted to carrying
out proper repairs for the deck leak we had on passage. Getting the old scupper
out was far from easy, taking a whole day (working well into the evening). The
deck's inner core had to be dried (we have a 2kw hair dryer that doubles
as a heat gun!) before the deck core was sealed and the supper re-bedded back in
it's place. That now looks good having passed the tests
of rain and hose pipe. However, the other
fitting was not so good. It's actually an ex-fitting. It was a support to
hold the old radar pole so had a plate on deck with 4 holes through the deck. It
was removed back in 2007 and the holes were filled and plugged with teak dowels
on deck. When at sea we found water coming from these, but assumed it
was water coming from the scupper leak and finding a new route in
as our temporary repair had stopped the water coming in around the
scupper. But it was not the case - this was a completely separate leak, so we
had 2 leaks! .These have now been drilled out and re-filled and plugged. So
we'll let everything cure and set for a day or so and then test it out again.
Then, fingers crossed, we might be able to re-fill the lockers and tidy the boat
up a bit!
Then there's routine maintenance like changing the
engine oil, greasing the winches not greased in South Africa, going up the
mast to check the rigging, varnishing the cockpit trays. There's also the
need to dive under the boat at some stage to check that the rope we got
caught in the rudder bearing didn't do any damage. The water's incredibly clear
here, so it's possible to do it while tied up in the marina.
But it's not been all work and we have taken time
out to go whale watching, seeing
several sperm whales, two each with a calf, together with lots of
dolphins. There's also some good walks here and it doesn't take long to get out
of the town. And it's been time to get the paint brushes out to do a
bit of legal graffiti, recording our visit here on the marina wall. It's
supposed to be unlucky if you leave Horta without painting a picture to
record your visit, so pictures are everywhere - on the marina walls, the
breakwater, even on the pavements along the waters edge, and some are
really excellent. It makes the marina very colourful. Our picture
is functional rather than artistic - just glad I didn't try making a career
out of sign-writing! It's still in production as rain has stopped play twice.
That reminds me, Faial is a strikingly beautiful green island, and if our
travels have taught us anything it is that if it's that green it must get lots
of rain, and it does! We have had mostly fine days, but we're now getting
quite a bit of rain. Some heavy, but mostly a wet cloud (is there any other?!)
seems to envelope the town giving fine drizzly rain. Pictures of the
paintings will be in their own blog entry as including them here makes this
entry too big to send. There are a couple of bars here showing the football
on big screens, so we've been keeping up with that (despite England's
poor performance!).
Although there's plenty going on here, it's also very peaceful too. Having been on the go and keeping to a tight schedule for a long time (we've sailed 17,500 miles in the last year - 8,000 in the last 3 months) it's nice to get to a place where we can relax, Yes, there's quite a lot of work to be done, but there are no critical weather related schedules and in the second week relax we have. When only getting 4 hours sleep at a time on passage, sleeping 8 hours in one go is a real luxury (and some days that's been nearer 10!). ![]() Part of the marina showing the inner harbour
to the left (surrounded by a huge sea
breakwater)and the marina to
the right,
with paintings everywhere.
Yes, squeezed next
to the wall on the right is Aurora
B.
Incidentally, look at the boat next to us, in particular
her bow. It's not supposed to look like that and has been
smashed in. He T-boned another yacht just 25
miles from Horta. Both were coming from the Caribbean and hadn't seen another
yacht until then. Both were single handers - one was down below cooking and the
other on deck, but he didn't see the other boat coming under his sail. The
second boat had more extensive damage. The probability of it happening must be
minute, but happen it did!
![]() The view we wake up to every morning
(assuming it's not raining!).
That's the inner harbour
protected by the huge breakwater (also covered in paintings) where yachts
can anchor if they don't come alongside the harbour
wall or go in the marina. The
mountain is on the next island
7 miles away.
![]() The island and the mountain are both
called Pico and it's the highest mountain in
Portugal at 7,640 ft. It has a different
cloud formation on it every day. On rare days it's
completely clear.
![]() Cafe Sport has been a meeting place for
yacht crews since the very beginning of yachting
as we now know it. Many a famous
yachtsman has visited and left a diary entry that's
available to
read.
![]() Cafe Sport is now itself World famous, as is
it's logo, having been run by Jose Azevedo
(known as Peter) for many years. It was originally started by his
father and is now run
by his son.
![]() The road that cafe Sport
is in has been renamed in Jose's honor.
![]() Walking round town there's a lot of fine
architecture and as it's built up the side of a
hill,
from the sea it is especially
picturesque.
![]() All the streets are cobbled and the
pavements have mosaic designs.........
![]() ....... such as whales,
..........
![]() ......a lady's cape, and
..........
![]() ...... windmills.
![]() Tiled designs also appear and these were
outside the market.
![]() ![]() ![]() A short walk takes you up the Monte de
Guia where there are fine views over the town.
The black sand beach is the main swimming
beach. The water is crystal clear, but judging
by the reaction of those going in,
cold!
![]() Looking down from the Monte de
Guia into the flooded caldeira and out to sea.
![]() The church on top of Monte de Guia.
![]() A sperm whale blowing and
................
![]() ......................
diving.
![]() Another diving, and
..............................
![]() ........... another, but this one has a calf
alongside.
![]() Dolphins were not going to miss the
opportunity to show off and see who could get closest
to the bow of the whale watching boat (which
was traveling at speed).
|