Antigua to St Kitts
Aurora_b
Mike and Liz Downing
Tue 24 Mar 2009 15:21
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It was an early morning start, leaving Jolly Harbour
at 06.30 and heading west to St Kitts. Choosing to go round
the southern side of Nevis gave an overall distance of about 55 miles.This
was our first downwind sail since the Atlantic and a very pleasant change.
Unfortunately the winds were light before we started and going downwind reduced
them even further, so it was back to light-wind sailing and trying to get the
most from every puff. Both genoas were out, together with the main, so all sails
up. The windward genoa was poled out and although not much wind
we still managed 6 to 7 kts. So, with a relatively flat sea, it
was good sail all the way to Nevis, just to the south of St Kitts. We even
carried the wind round the south coast of Nevis as the wind was bent
round the island, but, once heading north up the west coast of
Nevis the wind came round the other side of the Island and was dead on the
nose, requiring the help of the engine to motorsail - tacking up the west
coast. Having passed Nevis (we planned to stop there on the
return journey south) we anchored off the capital of St. Kitts, Basseterre, to
join a small number of other boats.
 A view of the hills from the anchorage off
Basseterre
 Looking out to the west from the anchorage as the
sun went down
 The sky catches fire as the sun drops
further
 Couldn't resist this one - see the figure
walking off to the left and the reindeer jumping over the crocodile to the right
- perhaps we've been at sea too long!
Like many of the volcanic islands, St Kitts is mountainous
with settlements around the coast. Basseterre is the only town and in places
quite pretty, but we wanted to try White House Bay on the southwest of the
island which supposedly had good snorkeling. So the following day, having
cleared customs and immigration, it was a short sail down and we anchored
in the middle of the bay with just 2 other boats. Unfortunately the reefs had
been damaged by the hurricanes of recent years and were mostly covered in sand,
but it was a nice setting and very peaceful. But the weather forecasts predicted
yet another northerly swell, so after a night at White House it was round to
Major's Bay on the south coast to get more protection and again just 2 boats
were there, but a different 2. Major's Bay was not a good idea! Having
anchored as it got dark, the swell came round the east of the island, the wind
went up to 20 to 30 kts, changed direction to put us on a lee shore and one
of the other boats, a 60ft boat a long way from us, dragged to within a few feet
from our bow just before midnight. Having alerted them with all the horns and
loud hailers we have (they were still asleep), they moved back across
the bay and we stood anchor watches for the rest of the night - 2
hours on and 2 off. In the morning it was back to Basseterre and with the
northerly swell predicted to increase, we risked going into the tiny square Port
Zante harbour/marina - very tight with cross winds! Port Zante is a new complex
build to receive cruise liners - St Kitts main industry now. The marina is quite
pretty and although small, pelicans would dive to catch fish
alongside the locals using seine nets from rowing boats. The cruise dock
and shore buildings though are all glitzy with more jewellers than we have
ever seen in one place! The 'proper' town of Basseterre is old and
quite atmospheric.
 Aurora B in Port Zante Marina - getting tied up
between the posts was quite a feat in 20kts of cross wind - it took 2
goes!
 A Pelican looks out for fish on one of the lights
overlooking the marina
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