Blog 83.

Alcedo
David Batten
Thu 21 Nov 2019 02:22
We knew the “sail” to Pulau Besar, or Water Islands as they are commonly referred to, would be a hard slog, with 68nm to go and 6 hours of contrary current whatever time we left. To start with, it was depressing progress with the wind on the nose and at least 1.5 knots of current against us, but once the current changed to go north, we seem to be doing 6.5 to 7 knots regardless of the wind. Also, the narrowing of the channel between Tangjung Tonor and Tangjung Parit produced a stronger flow in our favour and an occasional 8 knots over the ground. Plus, the wind was 20 to 30 degrees off the bow some of the time, so the mainsail provided some additional speed. We arrived off Pulau Besar at 17.30 after an 06.45 start and anchored in the recommended area south of the Island and a good distance from the huge cable that runs from the island to the mainland.

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Pulau Besar or Water Island in the early morning from the anchorage, with the cable running back to the mainland. It is lit at night.

Of interest to anyone planning this trip, we saw a large number of fishing boats, mostly without AIS or nets and there are long nets marked by a red flag at the seaward end and a small boat at the far end, most in the shallower inshore waters. There are also quite a number of buoys marked by black or dark blue flags, with other smaller buoys quite close around them. We understand from other yachts that they are lit with flashing lights. Plus there were 2 local cargo boats with no AIS and quite a number of towing tugs, not all with AIS. Not a route to be taken at night, so if night sailing was a necessity, we would recommend sticking very close to the main shipping lanes. We have also learned from advice given at the Malaysian Rally briefing, that when anchored, show a coloured flashing light, colour not important, on the bow and the stern. Yachts are less likely to be run in to if they are displaying flashing lights as well as an anchor light.

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Fishing boat hauling in a net with Melaka city in the background

After Pulau Besar, Admiral Marina, Port Dickson. A marina that is part of a resort complex with swimming pool and bar (which does sell alcohol). Laundrette and shopping amenities available about 10 to 20 minutes walk away and car hire available from a little office inside the laundrette. There is approx 4m depth across the shallows to the entrance of the marina at near low water, but there is a 3m patch just off the marina entrance, so we did pull the keel up.

As there is very little to do in the resort area at Port Dickson apart from swim in the pool and drink in the bar while waiting for the rest of the rally to catch up with us. We did some early prep for laying up and then hired a car so we could do the laundry and explore. First trip was to Melaka, a must do for anyone visiting this area.

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Walking the streets of old town Melaka in the Chinese area

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The river boat trip, a good way of seeing old and new

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One of the river inhabitants. Apparently there are many monitor lizards in the river, we only saw this one

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The famous clock tower in the Dutch quarter, all red buildings, museums, a Victorian fountain and dozens of tourists and rickshaws, all blaring out the rather wailing music beloved of Indonesians and Malaysians.

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More wildlife on the river, just the seaward side of the wall that stops all boat traffic coming into the river from the sea.

Melaka is bustling with life and history and everyone who visited it loved it. The night market provides even more entertainment and some very good street food. Don’t miss it!

Alcedo
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