In Nargana to reprovision
In position 09:26.483N, 078:35.21W
Nargana is one of the few places we can take on provisions and fuel in the San Blas, although availability is strictly limited, meaning we could be here a couple of days waiting for a supply boat from Colombia.
Fuel comes by way of what's kept in various plastic containers ashore which is siphoned and subsequently filtered through an old vest or T-Shirt. We did manage to buy some eggs and bread and of course there's nearly always rum and beer to be had. That obviously doesn't need filtering through a shirt.
The folks of Nargana and its neighbouring island have renounced the old Kuna ways and laws although some women ashore still wear the colourful costume. We were astounded to peer into straw huts where huge flat screen TVs were on. But, the island generator is switched off at 2200 hours (we hope). Most Kunas ashore seem to have mobile phones and the youngsters have ipods and look like youngsters of any other nationality in their general attitude. (The beginnings of the end of a deliberately preserved ancient culture we think?) But the Kuna are a friendly nation and very tolerant of so many visiting yachts and backpackers. In fact many many more than when we were last here in 1996.