Fresh sardines in Nazare
AJAYA'S CRUISE
Phil & Nikki Hoskins
Thu 9 Oct 2008 18:56
39:35.01N 9:04.49W
Having left Figuera da Foz after waiting for a blow
to pass through which had huge quantities of rain with it - the first rain we
have experienced since leaving the UK so no real complaints, except we had spent
the best part of the previous day washing the boat down. At least it received a
good rinse off.
The trip down to Nazare was another motor all the
way accompanied by a large swell. We saw plenty of dolphins although only a few
stopped to play in the bow waves - they seemed too busy feeding, and
occasionally we would see the surface of the water alive with fish being rounded
up by the dolphins. Our fishing lure would sail through the whole lot and remain
undesireable to whatever happened to be down there at the same
time.
After the modern(ish) marina at Figuera, Nazare is
a very different kettle of fish which is apt as it is a thriving sardine fishing
port which accomadates a small marina. The port is rarely quiet as
fishing boats go out in the evening with engines roaring, fishermen shouting as
the mother boat morors at full steam out of harbour towing it's small work boat
behind. On their return each boat (accompanied by flocks of screaming seagulls)
heads strait for the quay where the sardines are immediately auctioned
off.
It's easy to pre-judge fishing ports as rather
undesireable for yachts to be in but in Nazare it seems to work, and it does
give yachties a close glimpse of how these people work and earn their living as
for the most part we more often curse them when at sea on a pitch black night
when they change course every few minutes making night watches very
frustrating.
Once away from the port area Nazare shows it's
other face, that of a busy seaside resort having not only a small part of the
town next to the beach but the older Nazare nestling high above on the clifftops
overlooking the bay. Connecting the two is a funicular cable operated railway.
For 90 cents you can take the trip to the top and enjoy the spectacular views
over the bay and fishing harbour. We visited the beautiful church and walked
though small back streets. As a treat, having walked back down to sea level
again we sought out a local restaurant where we enjoyed our first fresh sardines
of the trip, 5 each, with boiled potatoes and salad, sitting outside in the hot
(yes hot) sunshinel. They were delicious!!!! Tomorrow its back to sea again with
a 65 mile leg down to Cascais close to Lisbon.
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