After dealing with the formalities of clearing back into the
USA we were free to enjoy the lively bars and restaurants that attract
thousands of tourists to the furthest Key and, incidentally,
the southernmost point in the USA that is accessible by
road. Just the one dual carriageway traverses the many Keys that form
a line out into the Gulf of Mexico with impressive bridges, the longest being
seven miles, linking each island. As well as Key West perhaps the most notable
name that comes to mind for us is Key Largo, both locations featuring in
numerous film scenes throughout the years. Key West is also served by an
international airport for those unable to spend the time driving there. There's
also the ubiquitous cruise ship terminal which offloads sightseers by the
thousand most days.
Motoring through the western anchorage on our way
round to the City Marina mooring field where the marina itself seemed to
be full of houseboats......
In the early part of the 20th century there was even a
railroad (whoops, railway) masterminded by Henry Flagler, which saw
steam locomotives chugging their way along the single track line to
Key West where a ship could be boarded for Havana in Cuba. How times change.
Travel to Havana now without special permission and you could be in serious
trouble with the authorities here!!
Mementos of a by-gone age where all that is left
in Key West seems to be the old station, the time-table, an old box car and
piece of railway track
We enjoyed our few days in Key West. It's so laid back that
it's hard not to like it's easy going atmosphere, especially around the
picturesque waterfront that skirts most of the west facing side of the
island. Much of the business on the waterfront away from the bars and
restaurants is centred on the water with boat charter,
cruises and game fishing, with prices to charter a Big Game fishing boat
upwards of $1000 per day. At sunset a plethora of cruise boats pour out of the
marina to sail out towards the setting sun, with patrons being wined and dined
onboard until the sun has disappeared for another day at which
point they are delivered back to the dock probably a little worse
for wear.
Key West used to be a huge Turtle processing port as the
Keys abounded in the apparently tasty creatures. Would, the 'Admiral' eat
one Skip asked? Well, not a whole one of course but maybe a piece of one.
Is our hard shelled and flippered friend resembling a huge Cornish pasty
closer to meat or fish? That was the question. As with so many other sea
creatures that mankind has decimated, the turtles are now fewer and further
between in the Keys and it's certainly forbidden to kill them. The
biggest danger these creatures now face is being clobbered by fast moving
water craft that zap round the Keys on the way out to the fishing grounds. Out
of curiosity we popped into the Turtle Museum situated on the dock in the
marina. Entry was free which will always tempt us through the door.
The old restored shiplap style building was being tended by an
enigmatic fellow resplendent in hat who delighted in engaging us in conversation
about English-American history, highlighting the sins of our English
forefathers before suddenly taking his guitar off it's hook on the wall and
singing us a song. 'Barking' came to mind here! But to be honest he did assist
us on our eating choices for the afternoon before quickly engaging
another party of ex pats from the UK and lapsing into more verse whilst
strumming his guitar. He was also an author but we avoided that subject
otherwise we'd still be there. But he did know his stuff about turtles and
American history - we'll grant him that.
'Skip' being regaled with a history
lesson before the guitar was brought into action ......... and God forbid
we ever hook anything this big! (It's plastic by the
way)
Celebrating our arrival back on American soil we took
advantage of the very reasonable Happy Hour specials at Alonzos Oyster
Bar, where appetizers were half price along with all drinks. Our
minds were momentarily overcome by our hungry bellies and we over-ordered,
especially on the onion rings! We returned the following day for another stab at
getting the order right (same Slovak waiter) and laid off the onion rings this
time. Looking around the restaurant on both occasions convinced us we were
mere amateurs in this Happy Hour eating lark as some diners just kept ordering
more and more whilst no doubt getting bigger and bigger in the
process!
Probably the most unhealthy meal we've eaten for a long long
time - but we didn't care - Did we Missus?
Key West proved to be a great place to people-watch and spot
extra-ordinarily long beards, as well as listen to some amazing music
wafting out of the bars and restaurants. One huge difference in our cultures we
have noticed is that Americans grow old far more disgracefully than us Europeans
and you have to somehow admire them for that. They seem to embrace a second stab
at adolescence, buying noisy Harley Davidson motorcycles, with
loud exhausts, sporting Woodstock styled bandanas with long
beards waving in the breeze. And the older generation is once again enjoying a
new muscle car era, with the Mustang, Camaro and Corvette having evolved full
circle back into something resembling the way they were in the 60's when this
generation were driving them the first time around.
The beard was a good foot long if it was an inch
and our attentive 'barmaid' with the frizzy hair was much nearer 65 years
old than Skip is - but nobody cares!
Not sure who
Michael McCloud is but he sounded good........OH NO! not Tarpon feeding
again - can't they catch their own fish?
Beauty comes in many forms - and
old sailing ships rarely disappoint the eye, wherever they may
be
Proving that old cars never die.... they just end up in
places like this
The waterfront, being such a focal area to the locals, means
that later in the day it takes on a hosting role, including Wedding Receptions,
charity events and private parties all of which add to the atmosphere for
us bystanders. We were amused at one event where tickets were being sold
for we guessed a charitable cause where a large chocolate dog (not a Choccy Lab
though) was unveiled from a cardboard box to join the billion callories worth of
small chocolate cakes that were already adorning the display. To spend too much
time looking at all the chocolate was to invite feelings of nausea as we had
just eaten that huge Happy Hour special! But we paused, or should that be paws'd
long enough to take a couple of pics and then be off home.
We had Fry's 'Five Boys' when we were kids -
remember? But not sure about Dixie Five Guys! But what a handsome
looking Chocolate Doggy?
And finally....... a sad note to our day's wanderings was
finding this wrecked Prout Snowgoose (slightly smaller sister to our own
boat) which had obviously spent some time at the bottom of the water
somewhere. It had the look of a boat that had been rolled over a reef. Not much
you could do with this except send it for land-fill, which, presumably is what
happened as it was not in the yard the following day when we went back for
another look.......
RIP !
Our next port of call is Marathon, 40 miles along the Keys
towards Miami.
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