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35:55.46N, 75:54.72W
We left Beaufort on the ICW motor sailing along the
Newport River and immediately spotted what took first prize in our onboard
'ugliest boats seen' competition. We suspect it will remain number one choice
for the foreseeable future. Looking closely it appears to have quite a nice
outboard motor attached to the stern.
Would
love to hear how a yacht broker would describe this boat in their sales
particulars - turn-key condition perhaps?
We continued along the Neuse River where Mother
Nature decided the boat would be washed once again in a massive thunderstorm
with darkening skies overtaking us as we hurried to avoid the worst. The
wind strength rose as if a giant fan had been switched on just as the rain
arrived and our wind monitor (it was working for a change) measured a top
speed of 41.9 knots at some point in the proceedings. Visibility dropped to just
yards in the torrential rain so we reduced speed back to an idle to avoid
hitting anything already in our path. Plenty of boats were caught out around us,
some heading into Oriental, others choosing to just sit out the storm in the
Sound. Either way it was unpleasant and we remembered the last time we were
travelling this stretch the same thing had happened. The storm passed into the
east leaving us with overcast skies and a good sailing breeze.
The first night we stopped at a pleasant anchorage
just off the river in Snode Creek where we had hoped to have a barbecue
but the rain storm and threatening skies put paid to that idea and in
any case the fish was still in the freezer compartment. In the morning the
cockpit was full of mosquitoes as Skip had stupidly rigged a bright cockpit
light under the awning acting as a welcoming beacon for every mosquito for a
radius of 2 miles. There were too many to count, some dead but many alive and
annoyed at having their nice light taken away from them when we got underway at
dawn. It took hours for them to dissipate but not before they had taken some
blood samples and left some nice bite marks as a leaving
present.
The second night we stopped just short of the
Albemarle Sound in a large creek called South Lake. We had not been there before
and we will not go again. This time we had thawed the fish so it had to be
used. The local bugs were also looking for their own evening meal, choosing
a sushi-style miscellany of human arms, legs and ankles. Bug repellent made
no difference. It became so bad after a short while that we had to hurriedly zip
on the whole cockpit canopy screen and then turn the enclosed cockpit into a
killing zone for the critters that had already arrived and weren't in a hurry to
leave. Down below Nikki was waging her own war of attrition against the flying
masses, one of which had the audacity to bite her on the rear somehow
penetrating through her shorts. It was probably dead even before she hit it
with the swat. With the weather hot and humid the temperature rose under the
canvas cockpit cover and outside huge winged green-eyed bugs the size of 50
pence pieces were flying into the clear plastic screens with a loud
thwack! as if on kamikaze missions. So once again the barbecue had
to be abandoned although skip volunteered to go outside and light the
fire but didn't take much convincing when offered the option of baking
the fish in the oven. So we settled down to dinner with the cabin
temperature in the 100's with the oven slowly cooling down in the galley.
Despite intensive spraying around the boat some
clever mosquitoes had taken refuge in various areas out of the chemical attack
zone and then hunted us down in bed later in the night as we lay exhausted from
the heat and swatting activities. That was enough - we needed a town stopover
where the critters would be in short supply. Elizabeth City on the Great Dismal
Swamp route through North Carolina into Virginia seemed a good choice so we
headed there. Later on we met up with friends who had more to
deal with than a few annoying bugs as a Water Moccasin snake (Cottonmouth)
had taken a dislike to their choice of anchoring in its territory. After
repeated attempts to throw the poisonous snake as far away from the boat as
possible using a long gaff and it returning not surprisingly in an
aggressive manner they finally called time and despatched it in order to be able
to sleep that night without fearing its presence! Brave souls! They kindly
offered the following pics for us to post........
Escaping early the next morning before too many
bugs returned for seconds we crossed the lumpy Albemarle Sound and headed
through the Pasquotank River to Elizabeth City to enjoy a few days in what is
described as one of the most hospitable stops on the ICW. We had a good sail up
the river, passing the HQ of the Coastguard Search and Rescue base covering much
of the East Coast USA. There is also a Blimp (non-rigid bodied
airship) facility further along. Blimp is so called because of the
sound made when a finger is tapped against the non rigid inflatable hull -
we learn something every day here!
At the top of the river lies Elizabeth City,
offering free berthing at the town dock and bulwarks. This promised to be a good
stop, relatively free of the biting monsters we'd endured for the last few days.
But it wasn't to be a straightforward arrival as we were to find out soon
enough.
After the storms have
passed.........
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