Bootlegger of Mann
Mon 13 Apr 2009 19:29
06.30 11:13.061N 60:46W Plymouth Bay, Tobago Beautiful morning. Wind ENE
12kts. After breakfast dropped tender in water,m secured boat and rowed
Not a yacht friendly place. No landing facility. Town’s only dock
inaccessible and closed as unsafe. Beached tender and tied it to a tree.
After tout of town which was founded in the 17th century by Scandinavians
and which has since been fought over by the Caribs, Dutch, Spanish,
French, English, more Scandinavians it was finally left to the English to
run until 1962 when it was given independence along with Trinidad which it
is politically allied to not being able to support itself economically.
Small but pleasant the town of Plymouth is Tobago’s original capital.
After a walk along the beach to a Rex Resorts All Inclusive where did some
e-mailing and a lecture to a group of SAGA holidaymakers returned to
bootlegger and made ready to depart for Scarborough, some twenty miles
distant and the Island’s capital.
Noon. 11:13.061N 60:46W Weighed anchor and headed out in a NW direction
skirting the large reefs to the SW of Plymouth which are marked by two
cardinal marks. Great sailing weather. KB has the boat, FN does a tuna
salad lunch washed down by white wine which we consumed on the cockpit
15.00 11:07.684N 60:46.92W Motoring into wind as we head on a course of 81d M
punching into sea and a 2 – 3 kt current. Wind EnE 20kts SOG 34kts
16.30 11:10.774N 60:44.166W F.W.E. Scarborough Harbour, Tobago. Anchored
near only other yacht here, a Kiwi yacht called Cariad.
Went ashore for a look at Scarborough. To say the place is not yachtie
friendly in terms of facilities is an understatement. There are no
moorings or facilities to receive tenders. A small decrepid dock exists
which you cannot come alongside as it has no sides to tie up against, no
steps or ladders to get up to the high boardwalk. Nightmare clambering up
from a rocking dinghy which is being blown under the dock!
Nowhere ashore to eat for people like us - best there was, a KFC! Ended up
in the Bar Code for a drink. Owner later very kindly drove us 10 miles
down to Crown Point where all the tourist hotels, restaurants etc are
located. We had a pleasant meal served up by a real Queen.
Easter Saturday: Scarborough anchorage, Tobago
Met skipper of Cariad who came aboard to introduce himself – Wattie, a
seventy odd year old Kiwi who has been cruising for the past fourteen
years largely on his own. He put me in mind of Ben Gun of Treasure Island
fame (apparently Robert Louis Stephenson was inspired by travellers tales
he had read of Tobago). Wattiie talked incessantly and laughed
hysterically as he recounted his stories and views on the world. A real
Easter Sunday: Scarborough harbour anchorage, Tobago
Spent the day filling in numerous forms at both Customs and Immigration
down the road. Unbelievable process of numerous form filling in triplicate
( making sure the old carbon papers were placed correctly between all the
forms) and journeys between the two offices handing out money and handing
in and receiving more papers. This has to be the worst place ever for
Clearing In. Even when we go to Trinidad (same country ) have to go back
and effectively Clear Out for Trinidad!
Thought there was crab racing on; wrong. We later ate aboard
Easter Monday: Scarborough harbour anchorage, Tobago
11.00 Took a taxi to the Mt Pleasant Goat Races. Arrived hours early to
witness stands being erected and stocked; frequent microphones sound tests
etc. Event finally got under way around 1pm.
14.30 Only so many men you can watch running with goats on a leash before
it time to go. Good turnout for it the stands were full and the course
rail lined with people. Went on to the poolside bar at the Crown Point
Beach Hotel which also overlooks the sea, for a drink and a late lunch.
Noticed there were several cruisers at anchor there.
Later after buying a hammock from a nearby shop took a taxi back to
Scarborough where we ‘Cleared out’ for Trinidad before returning to the
baot. Ate aboard and had early night as plan to depart around 04.30 hours.