38:22.4N 20:42.9E

Friday 23 May – light winds forecast, so early departure to head out to Ionian Islands

Depart Messolonghi town quay 0645

Arrive bows too Vathi (on Ithaki) 1630 41nm 8.75hrsM, 1.0hrS

Sunny, oily calm again, slight NW breeze midday, dies, then sudden f5/6… from dead ahead as approach Vathi

Cast off without disturbing Jane. Down canal, fairway buoys at 0730, head 250, virtually due W, to keep S of offlying shallows. Not sure of destination – depends on wind – could be Poros or Sami (Kefalonia), Vathi (E coast of Ithaki) or Kalamos (to N just off mainland), all about 40nm away. Got excited when f3 developed 1230, hoisted sails expecting more – but boat speed gradually fell from 4knts to mid2s. Motor back on after a quiet hour. Decided head for Vathi as didn`t get there last year and now wind direction irrelevant. Saw breeze just off shore as approached Ithaki, which v quickly strengthened (caught onehanded one of Jane’s cushions from foredeck sunbathing position as it suddenly took off and was flying by!) to be f5/6 on the nose and more violent squalls descending from 800m mountain just to N. still on nose when bear away 90 degrees into big bay. Worried as Vathi big lee shore, but Jane reads from pilot that it will die down at dusk. “Sail” in at 4knts, with all sails rolled/tied, head for little quay tucked in lee to N of village. A couple of spaces on innermost quay, so head in bows to between big Bavaria (to windward) and small yacht (to leeward). Not only sheltered, but good timing as speeding white horses in bay suddenly disappear and all is calm. Immediately strip off waterproof jackets and life jackets recently donned as was really wild for the last few miles. Last on this quay 8 years ago when chartered Good News. Only 5 other boats here, and one is Good News!! Bad news – highly recommended Gregorys Taverna is still there, 50 m away, but not Gregorys anymore. We have out of date pilot, Rough Guide and Lonely Planet, so don’t know if the cuisine is still as good. Will find out tomorrow as decide to stop here a second night now we are near Vasiliki. Only 12nm away, for our rendezvous with Rachel.

Ithaki – believed to be the mythical home of Homer’s Odyssey, where his loyal wife, Penelope, waited while he popped off for 10 years (or some say 20 years) to fight [CC1] a Trojan War, and took his time to return. In fact no archaeological discoveries to support this claim, the island just “fits” Homer’s description to perfection. Perhaps nothing found because, like nearby Kefalonia, most buildings destroyed in 1953 earthquake!