Along the ball of Italy's foot (part 1)
chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Tue 9 Jul 2013 20:06
38:19.6N 16.26.0E
9 July – long motor E along mainland S coast to Rocella Ionica and great
pizza
Depart Taormina 0530
Arrive Rocella Ionica 2100 70nm
Sunny, hot, wind N1/2, 0, S1/2, and 4 for last 4 miles!
Skip set off soon after dawn as many miles ahead. Passage weather suggests
bugger all wind Actually a breath to help, so motor with main up all the way –
to give another 1/4kt ish. Still spectacular mountains dropping into sea. Very
few harbours along this coast. Many places called Marina di something – but
chart warns this translates as town/village “by the sea, and do not necessarily
indicate a harbour or marina”. In fact most don’t! RI is the first one.
Annoyingly frisky local wind for last 4 miles – skidding along on beam reach at
6knts on just main. Awkward entrance as shoaling sand, so lift keel and follow
course of ingoing trawler as getting dimpsy – sun well set behind mountains and
colours have gone. Huge marina – high concrete sea walls. Considerable local
fishing fleet, and finger pontoons – a rarety. Many empty, no wind in here so
easy berthing bows to. Pilot and Captains Mate say highly rated Pizzarea outside
on quay. No sign of HM, showers all closed so straight for grub. V quick service
– waiter taps order on palm mc, and about 30 seconds later beer and chips
delivered by waitress. How wizz is that. Huge place to serve locals and campsite
and yachties calling in on way to/from Greece. Beer comes in 30 or 40cls, or
3.5litres in a see thro t urn. Went for the 40s. And then the Pizza – comes on
planks (just as quick) in 1/2 meter lengths, but 1/4 flavours. Didn’t rate the
mare 1/4, rest absolutely delicious. Box provided for leftovers. Didn’t get to
village/town as 3k down road and now v late. Boat v hot.