Heading south down Costa Smeralda, NE Sardinia, to expensive marina

chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Sun 23 Jun 2013 20:09

   
41:02.01N 9:31.5E
 
23 June   - leave Maddalenas early, head south down wealthy Costa Smeralda to get away from Bonifacio straight as wind is coming soon
Depart Isola Budelli 0800
Arrive Marina Portisco, Golfo di Cugnana 1600, after a stop at La Maddalena 18nm
Cloudy day, wind w f4/5 – looks like strong wind on the way
 
Passage weather (on Kindle) says wind on its way (40knts). Perhaps why most others left yesterday evening. Sail down to La Maddalena, main port on Isola Maddalena, under full genny, no main. Much ferry traffic bringing tourists from mainland. Get fuel and friendly port officials allow us to berth for 2 hrs, but want us to move on as they are expecting many. See forecast (same printout as Navtex) and speak to chaps at Capitainnerie (called something else now we’re in Italy) and learn Mistral will come thro for 3 days. Shame, La Mad lovely town and would be a good base to explore Isola. But Italian bread is so bland compared with  French. Need to get south where wind will be less, and we are in striking distance of Olbia for Danuta to fly out. Nelson liked this place too – good shelter for fleet to keep safe and run French blockade in 1804. Head on south  - just Genny. Wind getting fresher. Costa Smeralda is quite rugged. Gentle bump on bottom as passing thro one inshore passage. Many luxury developments around new marina Porto Cervo. A gang of developers (including Aga Khan) bought the land from local farmers back in 1960s for exclusive development to rival St Tropez. It’s worked as v popular with megga rich. Sadly we don’t have time to pop in to P Cervo for a nose.We head for marina further S where could hold up if wind comes tonight. Arrive Marina Portisco. On way in pass Cakewalk anchored offshore – meggayacht. You must check out the website www.my-cakewalk.com  Owned by US private equity king Charles Gallagher. Largest private yacht built in USA since 1930s – nearly 3000 tonnes, 281 ft and can take 14 guests in splendid comfort – see photos on website. Can be yours for £130million, but don’t forget the running costs – about 10%pa.  We tie up on empty marina pontoon, visit marina office, told to go back to boat and call in on VHF, so do as told. Friendly maronos arrive in rib and lead us to berth – other end of marina from the rows of bareboat charter yachts (monos and cats).One has  cold and advises he has taken asprin! Nice and quiet here. Nicely developed marina in nowhere.  Most expensive stop so far – 51.30 euros, but no extra charge for showers. One smarket – extremely busy as changeover day, and many sm trolleys trundle down the quay to the bareboats. Bar prices fair,so stop for a couple and catch up on emails. Forecast gives a lull tomorrow morning, then building to 38knts the day after. Will crack on before it really blows.

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