Head E to spectacular medieval harbour of Navpaktos

chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Sun 11 May 2014 04:39

38:23.6N 21:49.7E

Sunday 11 May Motor E under Rion Suspension Bridge to spectacular minute medieval harbour of Navpaktos

Depart Messolonghi 0730

Arrive Navpaktos 1300 (tied up 1330) 29nm M5,S1 (motor/sail)

Sunny! Dead calm till thro bridge, then builds till Wf4

 

Sorry and glad to be leaving. Two boats left dead on 0700, as the church clock was striking (wonder what nationality they are!). We aimed for 0700, but a tad late due to v late night out with Frank and Jackie. No wind. New 3 bladed prop driving well. Noticed different rattle from vibration. No significant propwash so can let go tiller and D`fly keeps a good course. Have to call up Rion (bridge) traffic control 5nm out and seek “permission” to transit N channel. Asked to call in again 1nm out, and given permission to pass thro N channel (so ONE pillar to port, THREE pillars to starboard!) Wind builds and funnels, so brisk sail last 5nm to Navpaktos. Overtaken by Frenchy sailing Belgium flagged steel yacht as we drop main in a fresh f4/5. He grounds trying to get to S side and hooks another anchor trying to get off. After several tight circles we exit and wait for him to get sorted, then re-enter and go bows to and alongside him on N side. Happy as kedge dropped in harbour entrance so should not snag local`s moorings. Another boat arrives later – that’s three; no room for any more – it really is tiny. Horseshoe shape harbour with narrow entrance overlooked by Venetian castle. Somewhere off here was the famous Battle of Lepanto (7 October 1571) when a fleet of European Christians defeated a Turkish Ottoman fleet. Today many youngsters frequenting harbourside bars (and they do so till at least 0300!) We pile ashore to port police and pay. They have lost form already filled in. After phone calls, interruptions, triplicate forms, (and 40 minutes) end up paying 7.66euros. Fortunately have right change! Hike up to Castle. Late now so gates closed, but still spectacular views down to harbour E into Gulf and W to Rion bridge. Quick beer on way down. Our first port for 2014, and what a gem. Apparently unusual to get a berth in here as normally no room.

 

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