39:14.2N 20.08.0E

 

24 September Sad to say cheerio to Petriti and Corfu, till next year. Anchor 1nm S for swim, then head S to Paxoi and large inlet of Lakka. Frisky sail across strait! Stay two nights after L O N G walk

Depart Petriti 1110

Arrive Lakka 1730 21nm

E land breeze holds till 1400, SSE on channel between S Corfu and mainland, veers and builds as cross strait to Paxoi till W f4 (and a bit of5?). Cloudless. Hazy mainland.

 

Cool 17degrees in cabin at dawn.Wind gone round 180 to f2/3 W land breeze.Well sheltered by low harbour wall  – splashes from small waves with 10mile fetch from mainland. Morning stroll to get mavro psomi. (Literally translated black bread, but meaning brown bread.) Cloudless deep blue sky. Head to next bay S (about a mile) and anchor off taverna for swim. Need swim pool thermometer to track decrease in sea temp. Must ask Father Christmas Seems to be cooling down fast. Motor E against persistent land breeze, which is also on the nose as turn S in strait between S tip of Corfu and mainland. Get to bottom of Corfu 1530 and wind frees and strengthens to W then NW f4 and a bit of 5 as ease sheets. Full sails eventually touching 7 knts across 10nm to Andi Paxoi. Beam reach and just manage to avoid a couple of reefs.Bit bumpy as swell comes in from way out. Sail right in to Lakka bay for flat water to drop main. Find good gap to anchor, but right in path of squalls coming down dip in protecting hills to NW. Anchor is set good. See fleet of Dutch Bavaria have great problems (again) getting danforth bowers to take. Don’t go ashore as breeze holds. Hear shouts from 60m to port – see overturned duck at stern of yacht, with 4 clothed men in sea. One gets out on sugar scoop, and is handed mobiles which he starts shaking to expel salt water. Some hope! Others get on board. Much washing appears on guard rails. Should dry quickly in wind. Sun goes down behind hills 1830. Need fleeces from deep in lockers. Jane digs out tracky bots and slippers. Can turn down fridge setting as beer almost too cold. Duncan does master chef performance with mackerel bought from fishboat this morning (cooked with Ile de Re salt mix) and salsa (nectarine, spring onion, toms, red pepper,balsamic, oil and black pepper-superb). Skip had gutted fish on way down, and subsequently removed heads n tails too, by late special request. Decide too cold to eat in cockpit – head below. First time seated below for many months. Won’t need wind scoop tonight.Boutari goes down well, along with excellent mild Cretian cheese and “black” bread bought in Patriti.

 

25 September

Stary night. No light pollution in bay.Half moon up late, with Orion and brightest star Sirius. In forward cabin get a sample square to view (thro hatch). About 50 boats anchored in bay, and just under 20 on quay. Flotillas, bareboats and owned liveaboards. 80% must be Brits. Quite a few Dutch, some Germans and the odd Belgium, Frenchie, Pole and Scandinavians. A rare Italian, and the Ozzies/NZs seem to have gone now. Must be warming up back home. Wind has gone round 180. Danforths seem to have coped as wind not strong. Could just be chain holding them.Use last Yorkshire T bags (now on Typhoo), finish Apricot jam (bought when in France and kept well without mould). Also have to break out last (125gm) Marmite from deep storage. Decide on walk to W coast as per Rough Guide. Skip has grump as not allowed to spend a few minutes purchasing local map – must get going. Some cloud so good walking temp.After 4 hours, spectacular views, monastery, churches, closed tavernas (end of season looks like 22 Sept for some), several dead ends, repeat several dead ends, dog pointing us to large roadside dustbin which we  upturned to allow trapped so tiny kitten to escape,  return to beached duck, knackered. Sign posts non existent. Had peep at other walkers maps on way. Some confused as paths get closed by new builds in remote locations, or don’t seem to be there. Skip now allowed to buy map for next time! Swim to cool down. Surprisingly cool for shallow enclosed bay. Jane beginning to get back to a squealy entry.  Clouds have all gone Slight S wind. Powerful sun. We’re all knackered. Decide to stay here at anchor a second night. Much reading and sitting in sun.