Many miles South thro Levas Canal and on to Island of Meganisi
chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Sun 8 Sep 2013 05:09
38:39.6N 20:45.8E
8 September After a lazy day need an early start to do long leg to Levkas
Canal (30nm) and get thro and as far S as poss, so we can get into potter mode
again and be at Sami (on Cephalonia) by Wed evening (girls flight home
Thurs)
Depart Emerald Bay 0745
Arrive Spartakhori, Nisos Meganisi, 1930 44nm
Sunny, no wind till 1400
Heavy dew. Only two others in bay at dawn. Breakfast underway. Motor till
1400, save brief stop for mid ocean swim and cooldown. Girls occupy sunny
foredeck. George steering so much reading by all. Drop sails 1515. Shame – speed
built up to 5, 6 and touching 7 knts on broad reach. Wind WNW. Anchor in pool
above floating bridge 1530, waiting to go thro at 1600. 20ltrs diesel straight
into tank from marina fuel station. Now “full”. Motorsail (genoa) down canal
thro salt marsh (current canal built 1905 but something is thought to have
existed since 7th century). Rubbish dump smelly today. Raise main on exit with a
rare single reef, as looks a bit squally. Just about right. Wonderful scenery of
mountainous Levkas to stbd. Green and wooded (olive groves and cypress). Head
inside wooded islands of Sparti, Madhouri and Skorpious (occasional motor as
quite a few calms around here).Arrive Spartakhori, deep water cobalt blue bay
surrounded by high cliffs and steep slopes covered in maquis and terraced
olives. Surprised first taverna is closed and owner is shouting that boats
cannot tie up on his pontoons as much wind expected. Head for other taverna
further in bay (both seem to be Spilia!) and owner says go away as no room. All
spaces on quays (with laid stern lines) already taken. First time skip has ever
been denied shelter. Owner did then move his caique fish boat to allow a posh
charter yacht to berth. D`fly must look like poor customer. Probably right.
Didn’t fancy anchoring off swim area as “much wind” expected (not on forecast
earlier today, not on forecasts checked a bit later,and never materialised!) so
went alongside 50ft Polish charter yacht in sheltered spot on pontoon. No one
onboard – all hatches open. Must be a friendly lot. Put out many fenders and
warps, including bow and stern lines to pontoon. Walk up steep road/path thro
woods to village up high to stretch legs as long day afloat. Enchanting spot
with stunning views W to mountainous Levkas. Village is a warren of alleys and
lanes Vague memories refreshed as been here before with Good News. Girls joined
us for beers/G&T at beachside taverna. Staff not very talkative. Only
bottled but seemed V good value – perhaps waiter’s maths suspect. Cat is rolling
– from boat motion, not booze (yet!). Girls check emails. Good loos, and spot
wash m/c. Will use tomorrow as towels now v salty and enough dirties for a load.
Back to boat for late supper. Polish skip returns – friendly and jolly; no probs
with us alongside. Bat picks up taverna wifi – no wind on forecasts.