38:25.0N 14:57.7E

 

30 June (and 1 July) 22 hour offshore passage (virtually due S), 12 hours sailing, to see nighttime fireworks of Stromboli, and on to anchor in bay on Isola Vulcano, so Jan can get ferry to mainland tomorrow

 

Depart Acciaroli 1000

Arrive just N of Porto di Levante, Isola Vulcano 0800 114nm

No clouds at all, wind calm, then WNW building to f4 (perhaps f5), and dyeing away 2300

 

Bit of a lie in. Would have been happy to stay at Acciaroli another day as genuine friendly place. Interior looks interesting with high rolling green mountains. Brief exchange of experiences with Brit couple heading home (slowly) and wanting to do Midi. They recommended Peloponnese, which is our hunch for next year. Cast off 1000, squeezed in 10 litres fuel, gently bumped bottom leaving fuel pontoon, motored for an hour then the NW breeze filled in. Beam reach with full whites – straight up to a sedate 5knts, gradually increasing to comfy 6 and occasional racy 7 and more. Expected wind to die 1900ish so need some miles to arrive Stromboli 0200ish to see the fireworks. Wind died 2300, later than expected. Motored the rest. No need to gun it. Stromboli appeared out of the haze 2100ish, at least 30 miles off. Expecting to see a blob on horizon but suddenly noticed large grey cone and wisps of smoke– just like a primary school sketch. It slowly got bigger with occasional glow from peak as now dark. Jan took over 2300.  Skip and Jane woken by Jan  0200, less than a mile off. Flashing buoy inshore – there is an exclusion area as this is coast with all the activity (and boat trip sightseers, but no others about at this time). Saw one red gush from top and some white hot lumps of lava tumbling down towards the sea. It gushes every 20mins or so. Had been expecting to see lava tumble all the 924m and hiss as reach sea. Tonight much less spectacular.  V sleepy so couldn’t keep awake for the next gush. Jan still on watch and did see more. Handover 0500, to motor last few miles to Isola Volcano. Smoking areas on top, and stench of rotten eggs as approach. Volcano now deemed asleep – last activity was between 1886 and 1890. Apparently the island was thrown up out of the sea by an eruption  183BC. Anchor in bay just N of main harbour, 18ft. Lots of others already there (for last night). Gradually they move on. Gentle E breeze – so no more rotten eggs. Loads of ferry/hydrofoil traffic. Catchup sleep. Swim, then breakfast at noon. Make sure wash jewellery as not sure what’s in this sea (Jane, not me). Lazy day planned. Will go ashore to get ferry times for Jan, and reccy a treck to the summit (a doddle only 386m) in cool first thing tomorrow. Amazing, pick up free wifi with bat whilst at anchor. Better get blog done. (Blast, wouldn’t let us back on later.) Did shore reccy, ferry ok for Jan, no need to go to main island as a direct connection to mainland (Sicily). Awful smell in places – see where sulphur gas bubbles up in sea just of black beach, and out of natural vents beside road, and the hot soupy mud bath that stinks, but many have skimpy swim suits and wallow, then exit and stand for mud to bake in sun. We saved our euros and had beer instead with locals and tourists in bar by ferry terminal.

 

2 July – did treck to summit and around crater setting off 800am. Loads of escaping sulphur vapour at top – acrid and yellow, have to walk thro some of it. Stings the nose and nauseous. On way down see many crazy US tourists on way up (its getting hot now). Fuffin and pantin, flip flops and no water. No wonder a helli pad on top for emergencies. Lazy day back on boat. Water boat comes in, drops anchor way off and reverses to pier 200m away from us to spend hours pumping ashore thro two small pipes, followed by fuel boat. Jan packs, duck all ashore for farewell beer. 1745 ferry to mainland, about 20 mins late. Covered 932 miles since Jan arrived and mast put up after canals, in just over 3 weeks. Seen a lot, done a lot, learnt a lot. Arrivederci and mille grazie. Many winter projects to prepare Astra to come this way next year. Noisy fuel boat pumps all evening till way after bed time