Another 36 miles upriver to lock in
chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Thu 23 May 2013 17:31
44:33.8N 0:9.8W
23 May What flood tide? Instead, fighting the heavy rainwater surge to
Castetes en-Dorthe, ready to lock in to the Canal lateral a la Garonne
Depart Begles 0535
Arrive Castetes waiting pontoon 2120, 36 nm (anchored 0730 to 1620)
Cloudy, then showers
The lady at the Begles Capitainerie said set off 0450 or 1715 to arrive
Castetes at HW, and it will only take 4 hours as average speed with the flood
will be 7 knts. No vision at 0500, so we waited for the colours to appear and
cast off 0535 – dead calm conditions and a slight flood. Never got anywhere near
7 knts, and the distance looked more like 33nm, which is not 4 x 7. Duff info
from a landlubber. And the guides give various Halte Nautique to tie up on the
way – but no mooring facilities found, or they were under water with the
exceptional high water levels. All the ruddy rain that went thro when we were
in Pauillac. After a couple of hours ebb beginning to build so had to anchor up
in 30ft, 30m from bank, way short of half way there. Wondered how much “tide”
would fall – only 10ft after 8 hours. Depth then began to increase, but no sign
of any flood. 1620 slacker ebb, up anchor and slow sog (2 or 3 knts max )
waiting for the flood to start. It never did Couldn’t hit 4knts, let alone 7.
Although the banks showed increasing depth think it was just the rainwater going
out less fast backed up by the incoming tide further downstream. Airbus barge
with A 380 wing on board surged past. Felt like asking for a tow! Decided to
bank crawl right next to the overhanging trees as had a long way to go and no
help from the flood likely. On and on. Further Halte Nautiques non existent.
Passed so close to one group of picnickers they wanted to hand us a beer! Passed
a fisherman who advised a wharf 3k ahead. Turned out to be where airbus tie up –
all very interdite, not feasible to tie up. Another wharf marked on the canal
navicarte- might hold a punt, but not us. Had to crab across from one bank to
the other several times as a few port and stbd buoys came and went. Chose widest
part to cross trying to spot the weakest current – even so went backwards as we
crossed. Downstream current now very strong. Hugged the bank even closer – good
depth (15 to 25ft )even just 3m out. Guessed that any debris had been washed
downstream with the torrent – but had keel 2/3rds up just in case, drawing 3ft.
Soldiered on and on, lucky to hit 2knts when really close to bank. Last crab
across river was to get to the sturdy waiting pontoon about 300m short of the
lock. Lockkeeper will have gone home hours ago (they pack up 1900). V relieved
to tie up. Bridget’s partner, Job, arrived by car with cooked chicken and beer,
but the pontoon had no shore access and the torrent in between couldn’t be
risked. Job had to find B&B, which turned out to be v expensive, and there
wasn’t any breakfast. We had lots of ships beer to celebrate a successful hard
slog, and a veggie meal for the third consecutive night. Oh for the
chicken!
Quote from pilot “April to July: river currents are weak: the flood tide is
noticeable and must be used” oh yea!