38:33.2N 14:52.2E

 

3 July  enough of rotten eggs, motor N past Isola Lipari to green island of Salina and anchor just S of  Santa Marina di Salina harbour entrance (the main port)

Depart Porto di  Levante 1000

Arrive Santa Marina di Salina 1315 11nm

Sun but no wind. Now living in shorts and t shirt. Bliss.

 

Uneventful motor up W coast of Lipari to next island (Salina)and anchor in 15 ft next to Dutch motor boat, in area marked on chart as “no anchoring”, just S of entrance to Santa Marina di Salina harbour.  By nightfall a good dozen anchored here! A v green island – the only one in group with own ground water, and combined with fertile soil, ideal for many trees and vineyards. Pump up duck and go ashore. Blown away by the place. Luvly pedestrianized mainstreet. Many tourist shops, but pleasant boutiques mingle with the butcher, baker, fruit and grocery shops. Marina looks good too, but believed to be expensive. Surprisingly lots of spaces for visitors – supposed to be high season – either the good weather and many anchoring out, or austerity. Bar/coffee/icecream shack on front with seats under trees, just opposite bus stop and to left of church. 4 chilled Massina 33s (beer) v pleasant and only 9.20euros. (Must find out how to get the funny E thing on laptop!) Back to boat for veggi to use up all that`s left. Sound of live piano and vocals from hotel 200m away, and then the cicadas break out too. Must be getting near to Greece No need for jambox tonight. Magnificent evening.

 

4 July Like to place so much decide to go ashore and explore. No breeze. High clouds take heat out of sun; in fact no sun at all to start with. Get bus to Val di Chiesa, the saddle inbetween the two volcanic cones. (7 euros return).Long journey (1hr)as have to get off bus at Malfa for 25 mins, it disappears, and same bus and driver return 25 mins later. Weird. Driver very chatty – seems to know everyone else who got on. Get off at about 300m and head up past religious sanctuary to find trail to top of Monte Fossa delle Felci, the higher cone at 962m. Tough climb. Graded v difficult. But safe as “no more active since a longtime”! Lizards scamper for cover as we huff n puff sometimes up rough steps too big for our short legs. Many trees – looks like our friends plane trees, eucalyptus, and higher up many firs leaving tori tops on trail. Saw one solo explorer on way up, and two more when we scrambled last 300m up a peak, to find it wasn’t the highest. Get to top (2.25hrs). Mist coming in from one side,good views the other. 3 others there – two gentlemen from Waterford, one lady from Turku. Note signpost says we can descend another trail all way to Santa Marina, so do so. 2.5 v v difficult hours later arrive sea level. Entire descent in thick bush, constant short zigzags to come down ridge. Huge steps, slippery crumble topping/leaves “can make getting a grip a tricky business”  (Rough Guide). Dead right. Would NOT recommend going UP this track. Quite overgrown in places suggesting little use. We didn’t pass anyone going up (or down). Much relief to get feet in sea n paddle duck off beach, swim off D`fly, late sandwich lunch, power knap. Plan was to head to next island, Panarea, but no energy. Thundery clouds approach. Decide to stay put and try another 920 worth, and perhaps a pizza. Got ashore too late for the shack. Jane sneaks in for shower at marina, quick shop, try another beer – not so good as Messina.